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Routes in The Crimpfest Wall

Better Rad than Trad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack of Noon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crimpfest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crocodile Rock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dave's Dilemma T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deceptive Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drill Sergeant S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Easy Does It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Entourage, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
File Drawer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Wuzzy Was Arete S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
InterGalactic Fungus Pull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Middle Parallel Space S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Planet Gnarler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Poser Free Zone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right Parallel Space S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Season Opener S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stooner's Highway S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson and Tom Hanson, 1997
Page Views: 707 total, 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a flat out, dyno-mite route with a bit of historical conflict. Bolts 3 and 4 allow the climber to move rightish or straight up. Straight up seems a bit harder and is very thin. I thought the route to be continuously difficult with several 11d scale moves. Hard at the beginning and hard at the top, it is a classic crimpfest.

Protection

Lots of QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. This is a long route, so bring 16-18 QDs.

Photos

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slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
This is a great route and really caters to more of a bouldering style of climber. 3 hard sections with 100% rest before the hard climbing. It took me a long time to figure out the 3rd crux, just above the midway anchor. It seems impossible until you do it, and then you still kind of don't know how you did it. You will want a really close belay here - there is a ledge with a flake below you, and the climbing is very insecure. Above this the climbing is fairly easy, but you feel like you are way up there. Oct 9, 2013