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Middle Parallel Space
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.2 from 5
votes
Routes in The Crimpfest Wall
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20 Years Later S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Better Rad than Trad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chest Bump Dat Cheese S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crack of Noon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crimpfest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crocodile Rock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Darko S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dave's Dilemma T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deceptive Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Donnie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Drill Sergeant S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Easy Does It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Entourage, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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File Drawer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Frank the Rabbit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fuzzy Wuzzy Was Arete S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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InterGalactic Fungus Pull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Middle Parallel Space S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Yellow Shirts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Parallel Universe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Planet Gnarler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Poser Free Zone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Right Parallel Space S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Season Opener S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stooner's Highway S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 39.25618, -105.09877 |
| FA: | Tod Anderson |
| Page Views: | 1,287 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Mar 16, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
The right side of Crimpfest Wall has several lines that are fairly close together. MPS starts under the right end of a low roof with a weird-looking flake. Belay off a good boulder close to the wall. The initial bulge (11c) is probably the crux of the route, and requires either a stick-clip or side-roping on the first bolt of the route to the left (which is much easier to hand-clip). Make difficult moves on thin holds to get established above the roof, carefully clip the second bolt, and attack the upper and still difficult (11a) roof. This entire section gets run-off and is often dirty. Now engage in far more moderate climbing to a funky flake that leads to the amazing upper headwall. A difficult sequence through a superb incut handhold leads to good holds at the headwall lip and the anchors.
Both cruxes are given 11c in Tod's 2004 guide. But be warned: both times I have done this route, my partners (both solid at 5.11) have floated the upper headwall but flailed and had to yard on the lower bolt.
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