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Routes in The Crimpfest Wall

Better Rad than Trad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack of Noon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crimpfest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crocodile Rock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dave's Dilemma T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deceptive Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drill Sergeant S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Easy Does It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Entourage, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
File Drawer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Wuzzy Was Arete S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
InterGalactic Fungus Pull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Middle Parallel Space S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Planet Gnarler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Poser Free Zone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right Parallel Space S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Season Opener S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stooner's Highway S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 539 total, 4/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 16, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

The right side of Crimpfest Wall has several lines that are fairly close together. MPS starts under the right end of a low roof with a weird-looking flake. Belay off a good boulder close to the wall. The initial bulge (11c) is probably the crux of the route, and requires either a stick-clip or side-roping on the first bolt of the route to the left (which is much easier to hand-clip). Make difficult moves on thin holds to get established above the roof, carefully clip the second bolt, and attack the upper and still difficult (11a) roof. This entire section gets run-off and is often dirty. Now engage in far more moderate climbing to a funky flake that leads to the amazing upper headwall. A difficult sequence through a superb incut handhold leads to good holds at the headwall lip and the anchors.

Both cruxes are given 11c in Tod's 2004 guide. But be warned: both times I have done this route, my partners (both solid at 5.11) have floated the upper headwall but flailed and had to yard on the lower bolt.

Protection

12-14 draws only.

Photos

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Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
 
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
 
This is dangerous for a sport route.

A high first bolt off a ledge. Climb past three big, loose flakes - it's mandatory to pull on two of them. They are unlikely to rip, but you and your belayer will likely be killed if any of them rip. Jul 13, 2015