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Routes in Winter Warmer Area

Ascending Order T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
At Fault for Chattery S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Basalt and Battery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chossy Achievers T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cool Water Sandwich S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crash Test Blondes T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Electrocuticles S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
F.A.T.A.L. S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fenced In T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Foul Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Franklin's Tower (originally submitted as G-Spot) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
G-Spot (originally submitted as Power of Tower) T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Gruesome Groove (Pass the Basalt, Please)? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insult and Flattery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Klimbink is Verbolten S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
NIMBY T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
No Gumbies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
POS Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polar Sandals S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rubber Biscuit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot to Trot T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solar Panel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stickin' It To The Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ugly Stick S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown? S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wagoner's Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Winter Warmer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Dave Fields and Ernie Moskovitz, 1993
Page Views: 4,277 total, 21/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Just what I was looking for: a chance to spray about Dave Fields. Dave put up many of the routes on North Table Mountain back when it just looked like a choss pile. The crags don't look much better several years down the line, but a slew of fine climbing routes have arisen from the heap. Winter Warmer is certainly one of the best lines on the hill and a fine contribution on Dave's part.

The climbing begins below the tallest sector of the hill, and takes a bold stab up the headwall 65 feet above. Start in a flaring, inverted slot and make a big reach to killer jugs and the second clip. The bigger your ape index, the easier the move. Winter Warmer steps left to follow a line of bolts up to the roof and head wall above. A variation to Winter Warmer stays straight on after the second clip and follows a thin seam for a short way. This is also a fine route, and it is also 80 - 85 feet long. Pull the roof on Winter Warmer on its left hand side and continue up a pumpy jug haul to the double bolt anchor that is over a ledge and out of sight.

Three stars by any estimate for the nice long route, good climbing moves, boldness, and overall fine stone.

Protection

QDs only. Bring a bunch of draws. This route is 80 - 85 feet long and is well-bolted but bold. The route needs a 60 m rope. This will get you down with a bit to spare, but a 50 m rope will not. Watch out! I have watched people get lowered off a 50 m rope to pick up a nasty fall at the end. As of 2007, the bolts have been updated.

Photos

FA: Dave and Ziggy as indicated. We were lucky to snatch this line, there were like 4 drills spinning at NTM the day we installed it. Ken Trout was hot on our heels but got involved with a short route nearby instead. The tentative name was "Poached Trout" (Dave's brilliant suggestion), but we were into Young's Winter Warmer and actually drank some later to celebrate this rig. The bolt prorecting the runout above the roof was first tested by Tripp about a week later. Apr 11, 2013
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.10c
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.10c
Bold only getting to and above the first bolt. From there, it is well protected. Four distinct and unique cruxes. One of my favs at NTM.
10c, but pretty sustained. Fun! Feb 3, 2012
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
The jug you need to clip the first bolt from 10 feet up has some cracks around it. I didn't feel any movement, but I'm not tall enough to clip the bolt without bringing my feet up high, so I backed off. Someone more familiar than me should go check it out to see if that hold is changing at all. If so, consider asking the FA team about moving the bolt a foot lower. Nov 21, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.10d
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.10d
New three bolt anchor, all 1/2" rawls with winch hooks as of 1/4/08. All the bolts are new too and color coded. A major hold broke just above the roof and the bolt that protects the headwall run-out got tested!

The nesting has always been crows, but the falcons are around. The presence of falcons has been good for climbers. All the pidgeons are gone and the routes they fowled have cleaned up again. I've also seen the falcon harassing the crows.

Winter Warmer's FIRST ASCENT was done by both Dave Fields and Ernie Moskovitz. Dec 23, 2007
Skat  
Does anyone know if the anchors have been replaced yet? May 23, 2007
The shuts at the top are in real bad shape as of 12/06 and need to be replaced - watch out. Dec 30, 2006
Climbed this great route again today - ! The start depends on some power and getting a good right foot to support the quick step up with the left, but there's another cruxy spot above, staying straight up, passing the third bolt, balancy and crimpy - excellent. If you don't stop and take the numerous rests this route affords you, the traverse left under the roof (what I have always understood to be Winter Warmer route proper) will pump you out and you'll hate yourself for peeling off of bomber 5.8 jugs, so milk every rest you get. Dec 19, 2004
ac
  5.11a
ac  
  5.11a
11a (at the start only) -- rest is sustained but no move harder than 10a/b Jan 29, 2004
Thanks, I think I get it now.

For anyone confused about the variety of ratings, IMO all the ratings here 10b or 10d are appropriate depending on your philosophy for rating climb. Being unusually long for Table mountain, the sustained nature and one hard(er) move at the right hand start, results in somewhat wide grade variations. Jan 29, 2004
shad O'Neel  
 
I did the line on the right today, with a 50 m rope, just barely long enough. I thought the technical crux was probably passing the first bolt, but the route was really sustained at 5.10 a/b and quite pumpy. Probably the best route I've tried at Table, long and nice, some spots are quite polished. Jan 22, 2004
Tod Anderson
  5.10b
Tod Anderson  
  5.10b
The original start to Winter Warmer went up the layback flake on the right. The v-slot was added much later and if you stay strictly in the slot and don't climb around it to the left is clearly not 5.10 anything. Also, the original Winter Warmer route took the left hand variation at the top. More recent additions have obscured the original line, so now there's 4 routes instead of just one! Jan 15, 2004
I agree that describing the start of this route is difficult, but I think it's worth a shot because it's really confusing. In the area of Winter Warmer, there appears to be two routes that start about 3-4 feet apart. The left start is in a deep v-slot with a bolt on the right hand wall of the slot. The first bolt on the right hand start requires a longish reach from atop a pedestal of rock, using a left hand undercling (-ish) and a right hand sidepull. I always assumed the right hand start was "Winter Warmer Variation," and the left hand start (in the deep v-slot) was "Winter Warmer." Both are given a rating of 10d. That's part of the confusion to me, because I've tried the deep v-slot start about 15 times, and have succeeded only once. The other start, on the right, seems far easier.

Terry Bryant Jan 12, 2004
This is a great route. It is fairly sustained and suprisingly long for north table! Nov 10, 2003
It's now crystal clear! Climb what you want, call it Winter Warmer and have fun. Oct 6, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
One could use a different lexicon to describe the start - kinda-of-a-thin-slot-type-of-thing-with-a-kinda-undercling-sort-of-thing-on-the-right-to-start-sort-of. Or... The more logical line, it it matters, runs a bit right and in a bit more of a bee-line. That's why Dave bolted it. The line to the right is some kind of 5.11 thing for a move or two and then catches up with WW proper - kinda-of-in-the-middle-sort-of-thing... Ain't rocket science. May 2, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
P.S.: Has anyone but Richard Rossiter ever figured out how to describe a route? He should get the climbers' Nobel Prize for clarity and originality in telling us exactly what to expect when we walk up to some God forsaken chunk of rock. May 2, 2003
The start, at least, has always confused me as well. Then again, I'm easily confused, so that may not mean much. The inverted slot to the left of the layback start, referred to in the description but conspicuously absent from the photos, seems quite a bit harder than 10d to me, and I always assumed it was separate from both WW and the WW Variation. May 1, 2003
I am somewhat confused about the routes (and variations) in this alcove. I think I know which way the original Winter Warmer goes, but Richard talks about an inverted V-slot - strange name for a layback crack. So I guess Winter Warmer goes up the line on the right (as shown in the photos below), then left under the roof to finish at the bolts on the left, where as the Variation goes straight up at the roof to finish at the bolts on the right (which seems the more logical line to me). So what is the start and line of bolts on the left and can these be climbed to the anchors on both the left and the right? Or more to the point is it worthwhile? May 1, 2003
I did this route a couple of days ago and saw crows not falcons in the nest mentioned above....... Apr 16, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Wear on both of the cold shuts at the top warrants some caution. These are in need of replacement, but will serve just fine for raps or top-ropes - if one is top-roping through their own gear. Replacement of both anchors should be high on the priority list. Nov 20, 2002
Bold?? I can see the line as being sweet, aesthetic, plumb, pumpy, or pretty...but bold? Over- and mis-used come to mind. Lene's Dream offers a long fall, but clean, and that might be considered a bold lead. When I think of bold I think of a cool head and the courage of a lion to drop the clutch with perilous consequences waiting below. That, my friend, is bold! Oct 24, 2002
Not sure if officially closed...but there is a huge (active) falcon nest just to the right of the route....may be good to highlight it as such (like the closed Eldo routes). I'd stay off. Thanks! ~Victor Apr 12, 2002
I thought the R-hand variation was the better of these two routes, and certainly no harder (at most 5.10c). A straighter line and more even difficulty. Either way, fine climbing. Apr 6, 2002