Type: Sport, 680 ft (206 m), 10 pitches
FA: November 2018 DW/TA
Page Views: 3,857 total · 183/month
Shared By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Aug 19, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Devil's Head Rock Closure Details

Description

The longest sport route in Colorado, this new route takes the line of the best stone up DHR. More details will be provided soon. To avoid confusion with previously published routes and people getting way off their intended route, the following is provided:

P1 - 5.8 - 110' - proceed to the start of Revelation Route, the chimney, but instead go right up a groove to a belay bolt to start the pitch. Go right past a flake then back left up the blunt buttress. From the bolt anchor, lower or down climb into the gully to a nice, flat, belay block (no anchor there, but not needed). 8 bolts
P2 - 5.10c - 60' - follow bolts angling left, then go up to the steep pillars of red rock to a belay station.  10 bolts.
P3 - 5.10d - 60' - continue up the red stone staying just right of Dr. Hypocrite's Golden Rule, intersecting with that route at the last bolt on P3 to the shared anchor.  7 or 8 bolts.
P4 - 5.7 - 100' - head right along a prominent ramp to the top of the pillar above DH Aid route and on the Forrest Van Meter Route (Dr. Hypocrite's goes left and more straight up from the belay at the start of this pitch),  10 bolts.
P5 - 5.9 - 50' - head up and then slightly right off the spacious ledge. 6 bolts.
P6 - 5.7 - 40' - continue up to the next station next to a small pine tree or keep going. 4 bolts.
P7 - 5.7 - 50' - continue up to the next station or keep going.  5 bolts. P5-7 can easily be linked together (~18 draws needed).
P8 - 5.10d - 100' - go up over a bulge of sorts, then go right below a headwall. Trend back left on nice stone and up to a belay on a stance,  13 bolts.
P9 - 5.9 - 50' - press up the bulge and up to a belay on top of a buttress. From this belay, scramble up and right into a gully that leads to the top. 3 bolts
P10 - Class 4 - 60' - head up to the right up a gully to the true summit and rappel anchor.  

Descent - DO NOT RAPPEL THIS ROUTE - from the top, locate a bolted anchor on the west side and make a 60' rappel to the Recovery Wall Trail, and walk down. The big traverse on P4 makes rappelling the route very difficult!

Location

This is just right of Revelation Route on Devil's Head Rock.

Protection

All bolts.

Photos