Avg: 3.5 from 17 votes
|Type:||Sport, 680 ft (206 m), 10 pitches|
|FA:||November 2018 DW/TA|
|Page Views:||3,857 total · 183/month|
|Shared By:||Tzilla Rapdrilla on Aug 19, 2019|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
This crag is closed March 1-July 31 for raptor nesting.
New as of July 17, 2015:
The only parts of Devil's Head climbing area that are closed March 1- July 31 every year for peregrine falcon protection are Devils' Head Rock and Recovery Wall.
The new map:
The OLD official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
P1 - 5.8 - 110' - proceed to the start of Revelation Route, the chimney, but instead go right up a groove to a belay bolt to start the pitch. Go right past a flake then back left up the blunt buttress. From the bolt anchor, lower or down climb into the gully to a nice, flat, belay block (no anchor there, but not needed). 8 bolts
P2 - 5.10c - 60' - follow bolts angling left, then go up to the steep pillars of red rock to a belay station. 10 bolts.
P3 - 5.10d - 60' - continue up the red stone staying just right of Dr. Hypocrite's Golden Rule, intersecting with that route at the last bolt on P3 to the shared anchor. 7 or 8 bolts.
P4 - 5.7 - 100' - head right along a prominent ramp to the top of the pillar above DH Aid route and on the Forrest Van Meter Route (Dr. Hypocrite's goes left and more straight up from the belay at the start of this pitch), 10 bolts.
P5 - 5.9 - 50' - head up and then slightly right off the spacious ledge. 6 bolts.
P6 - 5.7 - 40' - continue up to the next station next to a small pine tree or keep going. 4 bolts.
P7 - 5.7 - 50' - continue up to the next station or keep going. 5 bolts. P5-7 can easily be linked together (~18 draws needed).
P8 - 5.10d - 100' - go up over a bulge of sorts, then go right below a headwall. Trend back left on nice stone and up to a belay on a stance, 13 bolts.
P9 - 5.9 - 50' - press up the bulge and up to a belay on top of a buttress. From this belay, scramble up and right into a gully that leads to the top. 3 bolts
P10 - Class 4 - 60' - head up to the right up a gully to the true summit and rappel anchor.
Descent - DO NOT RAPPEL THIS ROUTE - from the top, locate a bolted anchor on the west side and make a 60' rappel to the Recovery Wall Trail, and walk down. The big traverse on P4 makes rappelling the route very difficult!