Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 39.254, -105.09 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,826 total · 229/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 26, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Devil's Head Rock Closure Details

Description

The Devil's Head Rock is a large but largely ignored crag. Despite its size (500'+), visible position, and location just 10 minutes hike off of the road and immediately above the Jackson Creek Campground, it is not mobbed with climbers. This is perhaps due to the vague/sparse information available on the crag and its routes or the long nature of them, which on several routes includes some less than perfect climbing. However, the South face of this crag has early morning sunshine, easy crag access, length of routes available at moderate grades, and the presence of certain stellar pitches should serve to gain this crag some attention. Overall, there is a mix of old-school charm and new-wave bolting available from pitch to pitch, and at least one indisputably classic 5.10 route there, the unknown 5.10 at the right side of the cliff.

Take a double rack up to 4" with lots of slings in case you want to sew something up or run some pitches together. Offwidth gear is optional for some routes and necessary for a few. Again, if you wish to run pitches together, a 60m rope is necessary, and a 70m is advised.

Getting There

This crag lies immediately uphill and across the road from the old (now closed) Jackson Creek Campground.

Drive down Rampart Range Road from Sedalia, passing the Devil's Head Campground, and turn left to go back up Jackson Creek Road a little over a mile (or maybe several miles) to the old Jackson Creek Campground (which is gated and closed off) until you see mile marker 502. There is parking space for a car or two not far from the gate.

Look uphill and hike up a place of your choosing (no trail) to the cliff base. There are some cairns on the right side of the drainage directly across from the campground, but they are a little hard to see. If you can't find them, just bushwhack up to the rock. Either way, this should take 7-15 minutes, depending on your fitness and load.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Head Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Southeast · South
Sunny Roughly 6am to 3pm during high season
6am
8pm

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