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Devil's Head Rock Rock Climbing
Routes in Devil's Head Rock
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Anneliese T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arbitrary and Capricious S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Dariush of Balanat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crack) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Double Cracks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Eternal Damnation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Forrest-Van Meter Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hidden Agenda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not Exactly A Warmup S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Paradise in Purgatory S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Summit Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Three Times a Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Time Stands Still S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Time Warp S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Type A Woodpecker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 7,000 ft | 2,134 m |
| GPS: |
39.25393, -105.08976 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 45,583 total · 278/month | |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 26, 2011 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
Per Ross Andrea: Ramparts Range Road is closed December 1.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Access Issue: Devil's Head Rock Closure
Details
New as of July 17, 2015:
This crag is closed March 1-July 31 for raptor nesting.
New as of July 17, 2015:
The only parts of Devil's Head climbing area that are closed March 1- July 31 every year for peregrine falcon protection are Devils' Head Rock and Recovery Wall.
The new map:
The OLD official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
This crag is closed March 1-July 31 for raptor nesting.
New as of July 17, 2015:
The only parts of Devil's Head climbing area that are closed March 1- July 31 every year for peregrine falcon protection are Devils' Head Rock and Recovery Wall.
The new map:
The OLD official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
Description
The Devil's Head Rock is a large but largely ignored crag. Despite its size (500'+), visible position, and location just 10 minutes hike off of the road and immediately above the Jackson Creek Campground, it is not mobbed with climbers. This is perhaps due to the vague/sparse information available on the crag and its routes or the long nature of them, which on several routes includes some less than perfect climbing. However, the South face of this crag has early morning sunshine, easy crag access, length of routes available at moderate grades, and the presence of certain stellar pitches should serve to gain this crag some attention. Overall, there is a mix of old-school charm and new-wave bolting available from pitch to pitch, and at least one indisputably classic 5.10 route there, the unknown 5.10 at the right side of the cliff.
Take a double rack up to 4" with lots of slings in case you want to sew something up or run some pitches together. Offwidth gear is optional for some routes and necessary for a few. Again, if you wish to run pitches together, a 60m rope is necessary, and a 70m is advised.
Take a double rack up to 4" with lots of slings in case you want to sew something up or run some pitches together. Offwidth gear is optional for some routes and necessary for a few. Again, if you wish to run pitches together, a 60m rope is necessary, and a 70m is advised.
Getting There
This crag lies immediately uphill and across the road from the old (now closed) Jackson Creek Campground.
Drive down Rampart Range Road from Sedalia, passing the Devil's Head Campground, and turn left to go back up Jackson Creek Road a little over a mile (or maybe several miles) to the old Jackson Creek Campground (which is gated and closed off) until you see mile marker 502. There is a recently added parking map here to reflect current rules: Todd's Parking Map.
Look uphill, and hike up a place of your choosing (no trail) to the cliff base. There are some cairns on the right side of the drainage directly across from the campground, but they are a little hard to see. If you can't find them, just bushwhack up to the rock. Either way, this should take 7-15 minutes, depending on your fitness and load.
Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Head Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun & Shade
Sun Angles Details:
Routes Mostly Face: Southeast · South
Sunny Roughly 6am to 3pm
during high season
6am
8pm
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Photos
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Guidebooks (13)
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