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Routes in Devil's Head Rock

DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crack) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dariush of Balanat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Double Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forrest-Van Meter Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

The Devil's Head Rock is a large but largely ignored crag. Despite its size (500'+), its visible position, and location just 10 minutes hike off of the road and immediately above the Jackson Creek Campground, it is not mobbed with climbers. This is perhaps due to the vague/sparse information available on the crag and its routes or the long nature of them, which on several routes includes some less than perfect climbing. However, the South face of this crag has early morning sunshine, easy crag access, length of routes available at moderate grades, and the presence of certain stellar pitches should serve to gain this crag some attention. Overall, there is a mix of old-school charm and new-wave bolting available from pitch to pitch, and at least one indisputably classic 5.10 route there, the unknown 5.10 at the right side of the cliff.

Take a double rack up to 4" with lots of slings in case you want to sew something up or run some pitches together. Offwidth gear is optional for some routes and necessary for a few. Again, if you wish to run pitches together, a 60m rope is necessary, and a 70m is advised.
Devil's Head Rock Closure Details
Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

This crag lies immediately uphill and across the road from the old (now closed) Jackson Creek Campground. Drive down Rampart Range Road from Salida, passing the Devil's Head Campground and turn left to go back up Jackson Creek Road a little over a mile to the old Jackson Creek Campground, which is gated and closed off. (Though the outhouse there is still open, cleaned and serviced) There is parking space for a car or two not far from the gate. Look uphill and hike up a place of your choosing (no trail) to the cliff base. This should take 7-15 minutes, depending on your fitness and load.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Head Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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