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Routes in Devil's Head Rock
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Anneliese T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arbitrary and Capricious S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Dariush of Balanat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crack) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Double Cracks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Eternal Damnation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Forrest-Van Meter Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hidden Agenda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not Exactly A Warmup S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Paradise in Purgatory S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Summit Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Three Times a Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Time Stands Still S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Time Warp S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Type A Woodpecker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.25393, -105.08976 |
| FA: | Mike Carrington |
| Page Views: | 1,278 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Forestier on Aug 11, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Access Issue: Devil's Head Rock Closure
Details
This crag is closed March 1-July 31 for raptor nesting.
New as of July 17, 2015:
The only parts of Devil's Head climbing area that are closed March 1- July 31 every year for peregrine falcon protection are Devils' Head Rock and Recovery Wall.
The new map:
The OLD official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
Description
Hidden Agenda is a nice option for someone's first multi-pitch experience. It is well bolted, not sustained in the slightest, and has a nice location.
Pitch 1: a few vertical moves off the deck lead to an easy slab up to the first anchors, 7 bolts, 70 feet.
Pitch 2: meander up very easy terrain to a section of slab that comprises the crux. Fun, but short-lived moves lead to the next belay, 8 bolts, 80 feet.
Pitch 3: cruise up the extremely featured slab. This partially reminded me of climbing the Flatirons; with generous bolting being the exception of course, 8 bolts, 110 feet.
These pitches may be easily combined. I took pitch 1 to the ledge with boulders at the base of pitch 2 and slung one to belay. Pitch 2 and 3 were then easy to combine by extending a few quickdraws.
Descent:
Rappel the route with a 70m rope to be safe. P3 is 110 feet long.
I walked off at the top of pitch 3 and slung a tree to belay, so we could just walk back to our packs.
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