Type: Sport, 7 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,416 total · 183/month
Shared By: Jay W on Oct 5, 2018 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Devil's Head Rock Closure Details

Description

This is a nice and varied seven pitch route that zigzags it's way up Devils Head Rock. A 70 meter rope is required to rappel the route. Otherwise, you'll need to walk off after the 6th pitch

Pitch 1. 9+, 13 bolts.
Pitch 2. 8+, 11 bolts.
Pitch 3, 9 , 10 bolts.
Pitch 4. 10b, 16 bolts .
Pitch 5. 9, 9 bolts.
Pitch 6. 8+, 8 bolts.
Pitch 7. 10a, 13 bolts.

Pitch 5 and 6 can be combined without much rope drag. We used a 70 meter rope and skipped/extended a bolt or two.

Per Tal Wanish: the start of pitch 3 has a belay station about 20 feet to the left of the anchors for pitch 2. Don't go to the right, you'll see another station and two bolts early, but it quickly turns into a mixed route. 

Location

To find this route, traverse along the base of the wall. You will pass the lowest point of the toe, and as you head back uphill, you will eventually come across a large amphitheater with black streaks along the rock in the back.

Towards the left side of the amphitheater is a short chimney that you can scramble up. You'll see two bolts at the start of the first belay.

The first pitch is a well- bolted slab the goes up and to the right and then cuts left again towards the top of the pitch. Just follow the bolts to the top.

Protection

This climb is well bolted. The longest pitch calls for 16 bolts plus the anchors.

Photos