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Time Stands Still
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 168
votes
Routes in Devil's Head Rock
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Anneliese T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arbitrary and Capricious S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Dariush of Balanat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crack) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Double Cracks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Eternal Damnation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Forrest-Van Meter Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hidden Agenda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not Exactly A Warmup S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Paradise in Purgatory S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Summit Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Three Times a Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Time Stands Still S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Time Warp S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Type A Woodpecker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.25393, -105.08976 |
| FA: | Tzilla Rapdrilla and friends |
| Page Views: | 15,583 total · 171/month |
| Shared By: | Jay W on Oct 5, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Access Issue: Devil's Head Rock Closure
Details
This crag is closed March 1-July 31 for raptor nesting.
New as of July 17, 2015:
The only parts of Devil's Head climbing area that are closed March 1- July 31 every year for peregrine falcon protection are Devils' Head Rock and Recovery Wall.
The new map:
The OLD official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
Description
This is a nice and varied seven pitch route that zigzags it's way up Devils Head Rock. A 70 meter rope is required to rappel the route. Otherwise, you'll need to walk off after the 6th pitch
Pitch 1. 9+, 13 bolts.
Pitch 2. 8+, 11 bolts.
Pitch 3, 9 , 10 bolts.
Pitch 4. 10b, 16 bolts .
Pitch 5. 9, 9 bolts.
Pitch 6. 8+, 8 bolts.
Pitch 7. 10a, 13 bolts.
Pitch 5 and 6 can be combined without much rope drag. We used a 70 meter rope and skipped/extended a bolt or two.
Per Tal M: the start of pitch 3 has a belay station about 20 feet to the left of the anchors for pitch 2. Don't go to the right, you'll see another station and two bolts early, but it quickly turns into a mixed route.
Location
To find this route, traverse along the base of the wall. You will pass the lowest point of the toe, and as you head back uphill, you will eventually come across a large amphitheater with black streaks along the rock in the back.
Towards the left side of the amphitheater is a short chimney that you can scramble up. You'll see two bolts at the start of the first belay.
The first pitch is a well- bolted slab the goes up and to the right and then cuts left again towards the top of the pitch. Just follow the bolts to the top.
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