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Routes in Devil's Head Rock

DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crack) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dariush of Balanat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Double Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forrest-Van Meter Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 222 total, 3/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Aug 15, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Devil's Head Rock Closure Details
Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route can be done as two pitches, but there is no reason not to link them. There is an anchor at mid height, but it is without rings. From the upper anchor, a 70m just reaches the ground (a 60m would not).

Follow a perfect hand crack up right to intercept the "double cracks" which actually become 3 cracks. The steepest part of the lower half was the crux for me. Although a little strenuous, especially where the crack is wider than hands, there are enough options for stemming to keep it casual.

The upper half of the pitch is a bolted squeeze chimney. Work your way up past the first 4 bolts. Crystals and features make it very enjoyable. If you want to suffer, battle straight up through the final bulge (more like 9+). If you want to make things easy, spin around on good footholds and traverse onto the right wall at a horizontal crack. If you are tall enough, you can clip that last oddly located bolt. After a few moves of face climbing, you can step back left and up to the anchor.

Location

This route is on the right half of the wall. Look for a giant, left-facing overhang up high, and it's right under there.... If you head straight up from the old campground, it will be a little to the right. You can't miss these obvious inviting cracks. You can see the bolts on the upper chimney part from the ground as well....

Protection

The bottom half is mostly #3 Camalots. There is other stuff available, but I had 3-#3s, so I just bumped em up.... The crack slims to #2s before the first anchor. There is a bolted anchor on the ledge above the lower cracks. 5 bolts lead to the upper anchor.
Dana Prosser
Boulder
Dana Prosser   Boulder
A #3 1/2 and #4 Camalot are nice to have on the first pitch. A green Alien and green Camalot can be placed on the second pitch to avoid turning around to clip the hard to reach last bolt. Sep 15, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
There are now carabiners on the bolt hangers if you wish to rap the first pitch. Aug 3, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
This is a fun climb that has only about a 10-15 minute approach. The first anchor would only be necessary if you have less than a 70m rope, but there is no hardware for a rap or lower on the bolt hangers. Aug 16, 2012