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Forrest-Van Meter Route
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Devil's Head Rock
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Anneliese T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arbitrary and Capricious S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Dariush of Balanat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crack) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Double Cracks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Eternal Damnation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Forrest-Van Meter Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hidden Agenda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not Exactly A Warmup S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Paradise in Purgatory S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Summit Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Three Times a Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Time Stands Still S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Time Warp S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Type A Woodpecker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.25393, -105.08976 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,625 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Carrington on Sep 1, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Access Issue: Devil's Head Rock Closure
Details
This crag is closed March 1-July 31 for raptor nesting.
New as of July 17, 2015:
The only parts of Devil's Head climbing area that are closed March 1- July 31 every year for peregrine falcon protection are Devils' Head Rock and Recovery Wall.
The new map:
The OLD official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
Description
Start with a short pitch to anchors. I went right, around the bulge to avoid the bushes. If the bushes were cleaned out, this would be a better pitch. Dive into the HUGE chimney. This is the most obvious feature of the climb and the wall. Climb over a short bulge, watch out for loose blocks here, and go about 30 feet into the crack. The third pitch is 100 feet of pretty straightforward chimney climbing. I went behind the giant block inside the chimney. The fourth pitch has a very short chimney to a ledge. Start traversing right here, with good gear and ledges that trend right. The fifth pitch has lots of different easy cracks that all go to the summit.
I used the anchors from the sixth pitch of Revelation Route to start rapping back down. Be very wary of loose rocks on pitches 2, 4, and 5.
Location
This is the obvious, giant gash in the left side of Devil's Head Rock. There is a fixed rope at the bottom that marks the entrance to the bush covered ledges leading to the climb. Weave your way through the jungle to get to the base. The wall faces east, so you have morning sun, but the crack is so big you're in the shade a lot of the time.
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