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Routes in Devil's Head Rock

DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crack) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dariush of Balanat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Double Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forrest-Van Meter Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type A Woodpecker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 231 total · 18/month
Shared By: Mike Carrington on Sep 1, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Devil's Head Rock Closure Details

Description

Start with a short pitch to anchors. I went right, around the bulge to avoid the bushes. If the bushes were cleaned out, this would be a better pitch. Dive into the HUGE chimney. This is the most obvious feature of the climb and the wall. Climb over a short bulge, watch out for loose blocks here, and go about 30 feet into the crack. The third pitch is 100 feet of pretty straightforward chimney climbing. I went behind the giant block inside the chimney. The fourth pitch has a very short chimney to a ledge. Start traversing right here, with good gear and ledges that trend right. The fifth pitch has lots of different easy cracks that all go to the summit.

I used the anchors from the sixth pitch of Revelation Route to start rapping back down. Be very wary of loose rocks on pitches 2, 4, and 5.

Location

This is the obvious, giant gash in the left side of Devil's Head Rock. There is a fixed rope at the bottom that marks the entrance to the bush covered ledges leading to the climb. Weave your way through the jungle to get to the base. The wall faces east, so you have morning sun, but the crack is so big you're in the shade a lot of the time.

Protection

A standard rack. There are bolted anchors on every pitch.

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