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Routes in Private Idaho

Hidden Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Private Idaho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 9,523 ft
GPS: 39.257, -105.099 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,608 total · 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 1969
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Private Idaho has an interesting history. It was the first rock to see new development in 1994 or 1995 when things got started on Devil's Head - despite it having the very worse approach of all of the rocks developed here. Private Idaho presently hosts three routes, one being trad the other two being sport. Climbing is typical of the best stone at Devil's Head with some terrific incut flakes on a bullet proof matrix. The climbs face South by South-West and being high on the wall hold sun until late afternoon.
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Getting There

The best approach to Private Idaho is to climb the Crimpfest Wall via Dave's Dilemma and walk left to the Private Idaho nook. Another approach is to top out on Rock Nazi and scramble down into the Idaho nook.

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Glad you had fun there, and the routes seemed worthwhile. The addition of about 100 new routes in that vicinity made it worth doing hardware upgrades this summer, and there's a spur trail now from Devil's Gate that accesses everything without too much adventure. I'll add some of this to Rakkup here before too long. Curiously, Private Idaho was the first sport route at Devil's Head and is still one of the most obscure. Nov 2, 2016
Aaron Glasenapp
Denver, CO
Aaron Glasenapp   Denver, CO
4 stars for each of the routes, 4 stars for the setting, and 4 stars for the adventure of getting there! If you top out on Dave's Dilemma, walk north but stay to the left. If you angle right slightly through a boulderfield, you'll end up in a much larger nook just behind the summit of The Headstone. We ended up there, looking at a dozen undocumented routes, before we backtracked and found the much smaller Private Idaho nook. Nov 2, 2016
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
This area is hard to access, but it's worth it--it's just a nice spot and the two sport climbs are stellar. We got in by rappelling from the top of pitch 1 of Remote Control. (Watch for rope snags when you pull!) You can't get back out that way, though. You can get in and out from the anchors of Dave's Dilemma, but be aware that those anchors are in a spot which is a bit scary to walk to. It's best to set up a short belay to get somebody to the anchors from the top. Jul 30, 2011

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