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Unicorn Valley Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Unicorn Valley

L › R R › L A › Z

	2016 American Refugee Camp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Awesome Ends With Me T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	B52 Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Chippy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Completing the Circuit S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crack of a Thousand Echoes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dude Biscuit S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Guillotine, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Jumping On The Bed S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Po Damn Democats T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Prancer S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tree Log Frog S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Under The Radar S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unicorns Fart Rainbows S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation:	9,379 ft	2,859 m
GPS:	39.26374, -105.10318 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	15,399 total · 129/month
Shared By:	Mike Carrington on Jul 5, 2015
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures Details

Per Ross Andrea: Ramparts Range Road is closed December 1.

March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.

Description

Unicorn Valley has 2 trad routes and 5 bolted sport climbs. All the climbs here are 5.9 or under. 6 of the climbs are about 40-50 feet tall. This area is in the shade all morning long and has nice tree shade even in the afternoon.

Getting There

Take the main fire tower trail a few hundred yards to the fence just before the little bridge, go around the round pole fence on the right. Continue up this trail a few hundred yards, past the switchback, to the intersection. Take the left (this is the old fire tower trail), right takes you to the lower west side (training ground, jungle and chicken head ranch). I counted 450 steps from the junction until the crag is on your left. There's a big cairn on the left.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Unicorn Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 10 ● Jumping On The Bed Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 18 ● Chippy Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 13 ● Tree Log Frog Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 11 ● Under The Radar Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 6 ● Dude Biscuit Sport