All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head

Radio Head Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Radio Head

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Bends, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Black Velvet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Blinders S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Centrist T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Corker S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Corkscrew S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Corky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Crandall Hammer Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Crosshairs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Doom Seam S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Equilibrium Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Freezer Burn T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gap, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Giant Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gigantor T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Heat Stroke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lady Fingers T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Left of Center S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Libertine S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Line-of-Sight S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lord of the Flies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Man Hands T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Meter Maid T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mighty Mouse S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Minimalist T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Mix Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mr. Kite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	My Left Foot S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Not Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Polyethylene Pam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Radio One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Refiner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Right of Center S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Shimminy Cricket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Shiny Face S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Stopper Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sun Burn S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Sunrise Slab S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Super Nova T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Surefire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Swirly Slab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tall Boy S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Tilt S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Tilt-a-Whirl T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Trunkline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Two Edged Sword T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	White Dwarf T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Widow Maker S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Elevation:	9,120 ft
GPS:	39.27, -105.118 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	61,349 total · 454/month
Shared By:	Jim Hausmann on Aug 15, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.

Description

Radio Head offers one of the shortest approaches at Devil's Head, with routes ranging from 5.6-5.13. Approximately half of the routes require some gear placements, so bring at least a small rack of stoppers and cams through 4". Most routes require a 60m rope to lower off, with a few requiring a 70m rope. Tod Anderson's book "Rampart Range Rocks" is the best resource for route information. The crag faces primarily southwest, with most routes getting afternoon sun.

This crag was developed recently, primarily by Scott Sills and Jim Hausmann, but there was evidence that at least 2 routes had been discovered and climbed several years prior.

Getting There

To get to Radio Head, continue along Rampart Range Rd past the turnoff for the campground, heading uphill on the now narrower road. After 0.7 miles you crest the ridge at the Radio Towers. Park here, or up the road a short ways, making sure not to block access to the towers.

From the parking, head northwest along the ridge. The trail is pretty obvious as it goes along, first on the right side of the ridge crest, then over to the left. Stay on the west side of the ridge, just below the top, until you pass a big mess of quartz crystals.

At this point, you will see a large tower (Line of Sight Wall). Descend the slabs marked with cairns and logs and a couple of steps. Total approach time is approximately 15-20 minutes.

Per Jason Haas: as of December 2014, the parking situation at the Radio Head area off the Rampart Range road has changed. A gate and fencing was installed this fall to control access to the communication facilities and prevent parking and camping at that location. There is no parking available at this location now. We hope to develop additional parking the south to account for the 5-10 spaces this takes away. Best parking in the area for now is probably to the south near the Topaz Point picnic area.

49 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Radio Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 84 ● Giant Dihedral Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 30 ● Sunrise Slab Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 32 ● Tilt-a-Whirl Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 48 ● Shimminy Cricket Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 44 ● Freezer Burn Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 45 ● Lord of the Flies Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 66 ● Lady Fingers Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 32 ● White Dwarf Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 67 ● Man Hands Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 48 ● Crandall Hammer Arete Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 67 ● Refiner Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 14 ● Super Nova Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 35 ● The Bends Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 42 ● Heat Stroke Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c 17 ● My Left Foot Sport 3 pitches