Radio Head Rock Climbing
Routes in Radio Head
|Bends, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Black Velvet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Blinders S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Centrist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Crandall Hammer Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Crosshairs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Doom Seam S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Freezer Burn T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Gap, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Giant Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gigantor T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Heat Stroke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Lady Fingers T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Left of Center S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Libertine S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Line-of-Sight S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Lord of the Flies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Man Hands T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Meter Maid T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mighty Mouse S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Minimalist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Mix Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|My Left Foot S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Not Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Radio One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Refiner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Right of Center S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Shimminy Cricket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Shiny Face S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Sun Burn S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Sunrise Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Super Nova T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Surefire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Tall Boy S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Tilt S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Tilt-a-Whirl T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Trail of Tears S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Two Edged Sword T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|White Dwarf T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|GPS:||39.27, -105.118 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Jim Hausmann on Aug 15, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionRadio Head offers one of the shortest approaches at Devil's Head, with routes ranging from 5.6-5.13. Approximately half of the routes require some gear placements, so bring at least a small rack of stoppers and cams through 4". Most routes require a 60m rope to lower off, with a few requiring a 70m rope. Tod Anderson's book "Rampart Range Rocks" is the best resource for route information. The crag faces primarily southwest, with most routes getting afternoon sun.
This crag was developed recently, primarily by Scott Sills and Jim Hausmann, but there was evidence that at least 2 routes had been discovered and climbed several years prior.
Getting ThereTo get to Radio Head, continue along Rampart Range Rd past the turnoff for the campground, heading uphill on the now narrower road. After 0.7 miles you crest the ridge at the Radio Towers. Park here, or up the road a short ways, making sure not to block access to the towers.
From the parking, head northwest along the ridge. The trail is pretty obvious as it goes along, first on the right side of the ridge crest, then over to the left. Stay on the west side of the ridge, just below the top, until you pass a big mess of quartz crystals.
At this point, you will see a large tower (Line of Sight Wall). Descend the slabs marked with cairns and logs and a couple of steps. Total approach time is approximately 15-20 minutes.
Per Jason Haas: as of December 2014, the parking situation at the Radio Head area off the Rampart Range road has changed. A gate and fencing was installed this fall to control access to the communication facilities and prevent parking and camping at that location. There is no parking available at this location now. We hope to develop additional parking the south to account for the 5-10 spaces this takes away. Best parking in the area for now is probably to the south near the Topaz Point picnic area.
Classic Climbing Routes at Radio Head
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season