Elevation: 9,120 ft
GPS: 39.27, -105.118 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,230 total · 408/month
Shared By: Jim Hausmann on Aug 15, 2010 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Radio Head offers one of the shortest approaches at Devil's Head, with routes ranging from 5.6-5.13. Approximately half of the routes require some gear placements, so bring at least a small rack of stoppers and cams through 4". Most routes require a 60m rope to lower off, with a few requiring a 70m rope. Tod Anderson's book "Rampart Range Rocks" is the best resource for route information. The crag faces primarily southwest, with most routes getting afternoon sun.

This crag was developed recently, primarily by Scott Sills and Jim Hausmann, but there was evidence that at least 2 routes had been discovered and climbed several years prior.

Getting There

To get to Radio Head, continue along Rampart Range Rd past the turnoff for the campground, heading uphill on the now narrower road. After 0.7 miles you crest the ridge at the Radio Towers. Park here, or up the road a short ways, making sure not to block access to the towers.

From the parking, head northwest along the ridge. The trail is pretty obvious as it goes along, first on the right side of the ridge crest, then over to the left. Stay on the west side of the ridge, just below the top, until you pass a big mess of quartz crystals.

At this point, you will see a large tower (Line of Sight Wall). Descend the slabs marked with cairns and logs and a couple of steps. Total approach time is approximately 15-20 minutes.

Per Jason Haas: as of December 2014, the parking situation at the “Radio Head” area off the Rampart Range road has changed. A gate and fencing was installed this fall to control access to the communication facilities and prevent parking and camping at that location. There is no parking available at this location now. We hope to develop additional parking the south to account for the 5-10 spaces this takes away. Best parking in the area for now is probably to the south near the Topaz Point picnic area.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Radio Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 80
Giant Dihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Tilt-a-Whirl
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 47
Shimminy Cricket
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Freezer Burn
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Lord of the Flies
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 60
Lady Fingers
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
White Dwarf
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 59
Man Hands
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 38
Crandall Hammer Arete
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 61
Refiner
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Super Nova
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 32
The Bends
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 4
Gigantor
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 35
Heat Stroke
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 16
My Left Foot
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Giant Dihedral
 80
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Tilt-a-Whirl
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Shimminy Cricket
 47
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Freezer Burn
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Lord of the Flies
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lady Fingers
 60
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
White Dwarf
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Man Hands
 59
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Crandall Hammer Arete
 38
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Refiner
 61
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Super Nova
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
The Bends
 32
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Gigantor
 4
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Heat Stroke
 35
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
My Left Foot
 16
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport 3 pitches
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