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Routes in Radio Head

Bends, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Velvet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blinders S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Centrist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crandall Hammer Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crosshairs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Doom Seam S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gap, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Giant Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gigantor T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Heat Stroke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lady Fingers T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left of Center S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Libertine S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Line-of-Sight S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lord of the Flies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Man Hands T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Meter Maid T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mighty Mouse S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimalist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mix Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Left Foot S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Not Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Radio One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Refiner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right of Center S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shimminy Cricket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shiny Face S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sun Burn S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sunrise Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Nova T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Surefire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tall Boy S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tilt S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tilt-a-Whirl T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trail of Tears S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Edged Sword T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Dwarf T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 973 total, 16/month
Shared By: Hiro Kurotsuchi on Sep 30, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the center route on the Gully Slab Wall. Once on the ledge below the crack, step up a bit on good footholds to get your hands in the crack. As you step up more, you can transition completely into the crack, which you can continue until you reach the shared ledge near the top of the route. There are many face holds and feet, keep off these if you want to practice your crack climbing.

Towards the top, you reach a ledge shared by all three routes on this slab - this is probably the crux for many, as you need to climb up onto a slight overhang. By climbing all the routes on this wall, you could make various attempts on this top portion.

It is not a bad route if you want to introduce someone to crack climbing - they can switch to face holds if they get tired and it's low angle, so not as painful as complete vertical.

Location

This is at the far (left, north) end of the wall. After finding Radio Head, walk all the way along the wall where you'll likely spot the slab itself, but you'll also see a somewhat dirty gully which takes you up to it. There is ample space to sit, dump your gear at the top of the gully.

Protection

Most simple would be an assortment of finger and hand-size pieces.

Photos

Cody Goldberg
Lakewood, Colorado
  5.7+
Cody Goldberg   Lakewood, Colorado
  5.7+
Not a 5.8, but a super fun moderate route nonetheless. Apr 24, 2017
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
 
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
 
Super textured rock here - some face holds if you don't stay in the crack - crack thins near the top requiring 0.5-0.75 cams - the top of the climb is the crux but is protected by a bolt. Sep 20, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
This is a fun crack, the top is a challenge, but at least the top is bolt protected. Oct 29, 2012