Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Radio Head

Bends, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Velvet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blinders S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Centrist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crandall Hammer Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crosshairs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Doom Seam S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gap, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Giant Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gigantor T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Heat Stroke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lady Fingers T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left of Center S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Libertine S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Line-of-Sight S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lord of the Flies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Man Hands T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Meter Maid T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mighty Mouse S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimalist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mix Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Left Foot S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Not Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Radio One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Refiner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right of Center S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shimminy Cricket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shiny Face S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sun Burn S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sunrise Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Nova T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Surefire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tall Boy S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tilt S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tilt-a-Whirl T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trail of Tears S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Edged Sword T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Dwarf T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Justin Hausmann
Page Views: 2,123 total, 24/month
Shared By: Jim Hausmann on Aug 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1 - (90 feet, 5.11b) 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Follow overlapping, left-leaning flakes with varied climbing. Must do classic!

P2 - (110 feet, 5.13b) 17 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Some desperate moves on nearly perfect rock get you into a left-leaning crack, through a hueco, then transitioning into parallel crack/offsets (crux). There is an optional belay here, or if you've got the endurance, continue thru several 5.12 cruxes to the top.

Descent

Be very cautious if rappelling this route, as the top 1/2 of the wall overhangs 15'. You don't want to be left dangling at the end of your ropes 90' off the deck. I recommend clipping both ropes through draws during rappel, then tying them off at the P1 anchor so you can pull your 2nd in when they rappel. It's also an easy walk off to the southeast.

Photos

Andrew Krueger
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Andrew Krueger   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
I climbed the first pitch today, and am no big shot by any means, but my partner and I agreed it was not harder than 10c. It was a really enjoyable route, with delicate, committing moves. Full marks. Nov 1, 2014
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
  5.13a
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
  5.13a
Amazing as one megapitch. Had to skip a lot of bolts including one mid-crux. The upper cruxes were super fun as well and shouldn't be missed. Classic 13a if you link it all. Jul 21, 2014
I agree Shiny face is thin, balancy and powerful with no rest points. My Left Foot may end up being 12d once it gets climbed on and cleaned up a bit more. Thanks Oct 2, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.13a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.13a
Wow cool, thanks for the history, Scott. By the way, I got on your route "Shiny Face" down the way, and wow, I thought that it was substantially harder than My Left Foot...like several letter grades (maybe mid 13 or so?). I could mostly finesse my way through Left Foot, but Shiny required some serious crimp/boulder strength (not my forte at all). Anyway, thanks for the effort in establishing these routes, good stuff. Sep 30, 2013
Congratulations on your send. After bolting the upper 2 pitchs of My Left Foot in 2003-2004 (Justin H. bolted the great 1st pitch beliving upper pitch not possible), I worked the 2nd pitch a few times and never did quite send it. Just like you, I found smearing left first was the way to get to the hueco crux to get up to the face and get to the difficult fourth clip.

I had added the anchor off to the right that you used so people could climb the 3rd pitch which I had bolted and sent before bolting the 2nd pitch which seemed impossible until I bolted it and worked it a few times. Glad you enjoyed. Sep 30, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.13a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.13a
Wonderful climbing and great stone through the crux on this thing. I felt like the crux came at a different place than the FA, but I guess its entirely possible that we are taking a different line. I found a decent way to gain entry to the left-leaning flake at the first bolt past the first pitch anchors that felt no harder than easy to mid 5.11. However, between the second and third clips I climbed to where the flake begins to turn into an undercling and I desperately smeared straight left to a seam/crack, which via a hard move (very core intensive) allowed me to gain a small little ledge with a couple of crimps at the same height as the hueco.

From the small crimps, I reached right to the hueco and then commenced upwards into the offset crack section (which by the way is amazing climbing). I played around a bit with going straight from the flake to the hueco, but this seemed like it was going to require a very shoulder intensive move that I wanted to avoid. Given the way I climb it, I thought that the crux was the traversing section down low, while the upper offset section was quite a bit easier (though perhaps more pumpy).

No matter how you cut it though, this is an excellent route. Kudos to the Hausmanns for the seeing this line. For those that are interested, I ran the first two pitches together (11b and 13b) and stopped at the anchor off to the right just passed the second pitch crux (use a few longer runners down low). Done this way, I could lower all the way to the ground with my 70m with about 5 feet to spare (tie a knot though just in case my rope is long). Aug 18, 2013
The 13 portion can be avoided for those interested in the upper 5.12 pitch. The guidebook describes how all this works, and it makes for some high quality climbing with 2 pitches of 11 and one 12 pitch to top it off. This is really an amazing line for sure. The stone gets better the higher you go. Oct 8, 2010
I've only done the 1st pitch of this line, it's really nice, and the 2nd pitch just looks crazy classic pumpy hard and a must do!! Sick. Oct 6, 2010