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Routes in Radio Head

Bends, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Velvet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blinders S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Centrist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crandall Hammer Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crosshairs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Doom Seam S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gap, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Giant Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gigantor T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Heat Stroke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lady Fingers T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left of Center S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Libertine S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Line-of-Sight S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lord of the Flies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Man Hands T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Meter Maid T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mighty Mouse S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimalist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mix Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Left Foot S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Not Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Radio One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Refiner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right of Center S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shimminy Cricket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shiny Face S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sun Burn S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sunrise Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Nova T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Surefire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tall Boy S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tilt S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tilt-a-Whirl T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trail of Tears S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Edged Sword T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Dwarf T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ryan Tuleja?
Page Views: 4,668 total, 52/month
Shared By: Jim Hausmann on Aug 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This obvious route was most likely climbed years ago by an unknown first ascentionist, but Ryan cleaned off a ton of loose rock and added modern anchors, so he deserves credit for that. If you are doing the route in 1 long pitch, make sure the belayer ties in, as it uses up an entire 60m cord. It can be rappelled in 2 pitches with a single rope.

Location

Start at the base of the obvious, right-facing dihedral. Rappel down or walk off to the south.

Protection

There are 2 bolts on the slab leading up to the dihedral, the crack takes fingers thru fist sizes. Anchors at 90' and 190'.
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
  5.8
This is a fine trad line and not to be missed if you are in the area. The first pitch seemed kind of awkward, with reasonable protection opportunities in semi-questionable rock (be reasonably solid at the grade). The second pitch protects very easily and is not sustained (a good beginner's lead). The 5.8 section on the second pitch has bolts you can clip, so you really don't even need to be a 5.8 trad leader to tackle the second pitch. Jul 21, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
The first 10' of the second pitch is 5.8. It is only 5.7 after that. Oct 11, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
The 1st pitch seemed fairly easy for a 5.8. Good climb! Oct 8, 2012
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Fabulous climb! I'm a newer trad leader, fortunately without a lack of gear. There's a fun variety of climbing, plenty of opportunity to place gear. Our group did a double rope rap with 70m ropes, it easily brought us to the bottom. Only problem pulling the rope was the big freestanding flake above the second bolt (i.e. at the bottom), our rope fell behind it.

Helmets for all parties climbing and watching recommended - loose rocks abound. Also, the route is pretty sandy in places.

GEAR BETA - I used medium to large (up to #4) to protect P1. Only used one sketchy small nut, might have used a medium hex. I seem to remember wishing that I had a second C4 #2 (gold). In any case, a SR for P1 seemed completely adequate.

Pitch 2 eats gear! Depends how much you want to protect it - being low angle though, I'm not sure how far you want to slide! C4 #0.5 and medium-large nuts seemed to work well, alongside opportunities to use the rest of your rack. Sep 30, 2012
Mike Carrington
Centenntial
Mike Carrington   Centenntial
Great climb! However, there are two huge scary rocks that look like they will fall one of these days. One at the first belay, you stand on it to clip the first bolt and another hanging over the top of the second pitch on the left. Oct 9, 2010