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Giant Dihedral

5.8, Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 81 votes
FA: Ryan Tuleja?
Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head > Radio Head
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This obvious route was most likely climbed years ago by an unknown first ascentionist, but Ryan cleaned off a ton of loose rock and added modern anchors, so he deserves credit for that. If you are doing the route in 1 long pitch, make sure the belayer ties in, as it uses up an entire 60m cord. It can be rappelled in 2 pitches with a single rope.

Location

Start at the base of the obvious, right-facing dihedral. Rappel down or walk off to the south.

Protection

There are 2 bolts on the slab leading up to the dihedral, the crack takes fingers thru fist sizes. Anchors at 90' and 190'.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

September Wall @ Radiohead Crag - Devil's Head.
[Hide Photo] September Wall @ Radiohead Crag - Devil's Head.
First pitch. Headlamp lighting the way.
[Hide Photo] First pitch. Headlamp lighting the way.
Line is obvious, right-facing dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Line is obvious, right-facing dihedral.
Just a photo of my rope on the first pitch dihederal.
[Hide Photo] Just a photo of my rope on the first pitch dihederal.
Looking down pitch 2 from the anchors.
[Hide Photo] Looking down pitch 2 from the anchors.
Looking up P2.<br> Very fun and easier than it looks.
[Hide Photo] Looking up P2. Very fun and easier than it looks.
On the second pitch.
[Hide Photo] On the second pitch.
On the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] On the first pitch.
Looking up the second pitch. You can see the two bolts on the left of the dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the second pitch. You can see the two bolts on the left of the dihedral.
Looking down the second pitch.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the second pitch.
Looking down the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the first pitch.
Tina running up the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Tina running up the first pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Carrington
Centenntial
[Hide Comment] Great climb! However, there are two huge scary rocks that look like they will fall one of these days. One at the first belay, you stand on it to clip the first bolt and another hanging over the top of the second pitch on the left. Oct 9, 2010
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Fabulous climb! I'm a newer trad leader, fortunately without a lack of gear. There's a fun variety of climbing, plenty of opportunity to place gear. Our group did a double rope rap with 70m ropes, it easily brought us to the bottom. Only problem pulling the rope was the big freestanding flake above the second bolt (i.e. at the bottom), our rope fell behind it.

Helmets for all parties climbing and watching recommended - loose rocks abound. Also, the route is pretty sandy in places.

GEAR BETA - I used medium to large (up to #4) to protect P1. Only used one sketchy small nut, might have used a medium hex. I seem to remember wishing that I had a second C4 #2 (gold). In any case, a SR for P1 seemed completely adequate.

Pitch 2 eats gear! Depends how much you want to protect it - being low angle though, I'm not sure how far you want to slide! C4 #0.5 and medium-large nuts seemed to work well, alongside opportunities to use the rest of your rack. Sep 30, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The 1st pitch seemed fairly easy for a 5.8. Good climb! Oct 8, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The first 10' of the second pitch is 5.8. It is only 5.7 after that. Oct 11, 2012
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This is a fine trad line and not to be missed if you are in the area. The first pitch seemed kind of awkward, with reasonable protection opportunities in semi-questionable rock (be reasonably solid at the grade). The second pitch protects very easily and is not sustained (a good beginner's lead). The 5.8 section on the second pitch has bolts you can clip, so you really don't even need to be a 5.8 trad leader to tackle the second pitch. Jul 21, 2014
Sam Rumel
 
[Hide Comment] Pretty quality route that could use some traffic to clean up the junk. I brought doubles to 3 to link it into one pitch, and that seemed more than adequate. A #4 would not be unreasonable, but there are plenty of places to protect this climb. Jul 21, 2018
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Enjoyable route that was quite sunny and warm in early October. I'm sure you could break it into two pitches, but I don't really see the point. The belay ledge is huge and bolted. FYI, it's a short 5.easy unprotected pitch to get to the Tilt-A-Whirl anchors from the top of P2 of Giant Dihedral, and a 70m rope will TR that route. Don't forget a directional a bolt above the low crux. A recommendable addition to the outing though I don't know if I'd want a beginner yo-yoing on Tilt-A-Whirl due to rope rub. Oct 16, 2019