Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Scott Sills
Page Views: 1,891 total · 21/month
Shared By: Kevin Fox on Aug 30, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

42 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details


This route is just to the right of Shiny Face. It starts with 4 bolts, and as you head up, you will use a mix of cams for protection.


It is to the right of Shiny Face.


Four bolts at the start protect the beginning. We used a mix of cams from blue Alien all the way up to #4 Camalot. The 2 bolt anchor is on the left not on the right as per guidebook.


Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I thought the bolted part of this climb was the most difficult, but if your crack climbing skills are lacking, you might feel the crux is above the bolts. Nov 1, 2012
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
This is a fun route that needs to be climbed more to get rid of some of the lichen on the rock and dirt in the cracks. I thought there were two cruxes -- one down low at about the third bolt which is mostly just an awkward, off-balance move. The second is up high about 15 feet below the anchors where there's not much for the feet. I placed all sizes of cams from a 00 Metolius to a #4 Camalot, but mostly the cracks took between 0.75 and #2 cams. Fun route -- enjoy! May 25, 2013
Jim Brink
Fort Collins, CO
Jim Brink   Fort Collins, CO
I loved this route! Face climbing, crack climbing, bulges, a roof, and a traverse with an amazing hidden hold. Anchors are around the roof/corner up left and out of sight. Excellent pro with nuts from 1/4" to 1" and a few cams. May 28, 2013
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
A really fun pitch. I am not sure why there are bolts, but might as well use them if they are there. Seemed like there were protection opportunities nearby in all cases (though perhaps the exfoliating rock is the reasoning?). The move around the second bolt seemed like the crux, but I saw a good #2 placement to the right of the bolt and another smaller cam placement above the bolt near the "solution" hold. Jul 21, 2014
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
I thought this was a tough lead - 4 bolts to a fun crack with face holds on your right - a tough left traverse near the top - we used gear from small X4 and 0.4 C4 to protect the top to a full #4 C4 at the crack - fun! Sep 20, 2015
Jim Hausmann
Richmond, TX
Jim Hausmann   Richmond, TX
FA: Scott Sills. Sep 28, 2015
Brighton, CO
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
Very nice route, found it to be sustained. It was quite wet today. The finish is committing, and small gear placements are there at the top but not obvious. May 28, 2017
Luke Clarke
Luke Clarke   Golden
Do this climb. Agree with gear recommendations and 9+ rating in comments. This pitch packs a lot of fun into 100 feet of vertical. Jun 5, 2017