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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tod and Gordon Anderson
Page Views: 4,870 total · 54/month
Shared By: Fred Bonnard on Sep 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details


This route is a must do. It has continuous and various climbing that require some thinking. The first crux comes at the 5th bolt plus a delicate move coming out of the crack a few bolts higher.


This route is the 5th route (East Face) and easy to locate with the obvious dihedral.


12 bolts.


Tzilla Rapdrilla
Tzilla Rapdrilla  
If you do this on gear, just don't fall on the upper half of the route. Also, the now possible gear placements on the crux were full of rocks until I cleaned them out, but they are nice finger locks. Nov 26, 2016
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
If you have a rack.... Try it on gear. I clipped the bolts and felt bad for it.... It appeared to have more textbook pro than the 11c crack on the northeast face of this formation. Jul 21, 2014
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Great route! Techy and pumpy stemming with plenty of good rests and great holds. The most difficult part of the route was reading it. The climbing is no harder than 11b with good footwork for a taller person. Jun 18, 2014
Kirsten KDog
Kirsten KDog  
I'm not in the greatest climbing shape at the moment, but this felt pretty hard for 11b. Very sustained. Maybe I wasn't reading some of moves right, but it felt tricky for sure. May 27, 2013
Pink Thunder
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
This route is awesome. Best one I've found yet at Devil's Head. Do it, but it ain't 11b; I'd say solid 11c. May 6, 2013
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Killer moves on bullet rock, certainly one of the best .11s at DH. Jul 8, 2012

Great route with consistently interesting climbing from the moment you leave the ground until you clip the chains. From the ground, it looks fairly easy, but there is some weird geometry up there. Jun 25, 2012
Tzilla Rapdrilla
Tzilla Rapdrilla  
Does it help if my son led it last year when he was 10? There are some kind of inobvious moves, so it may seem tough if you miss the tricks. Jun 28, 2011
Denver, CO
koreo   Denver, CO
Awesome route, I could just be a pussy, but I think it's a little stout for the grade. Jun 28, 2011

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