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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

As per Tod's guide this sits in the lower west side. From the trailhead, follow it up to the bridge and fence. Bang a right through the fence and follow it up through the two switchbacks over the pass. Follow the signage to the Chicken Head Ranch. There is climbing all the way around this crag. Can chase sun or shade. love the climbing here. the routes are amazing. would love to know the person that put them up.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

15 to 20 minute hike.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chicken Head Ranch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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