Elevation: 9,247 ft
GPS: 39.259, -105.106 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 46,194 total · 339/month
Shared By: Kevin Fox on Aug 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

As per Tod's guide this sits in the lower west side. From the trailhead, follow it up to the bridge and fence. Bang a right through the fence and follow it up through the two switchbacks over the pass. Follow the signage to the Chicken Head Ranch. There is climbing all the way around this crag. Can chase sun or shade. love the climbing here. the routes are amazing. would love to know the person that put them up.

Getting There

15 to 20 minute hike.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chicken Head Ranch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 56
Bart's Route
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 75
Beaks and Feet
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 34
Mini-Splitter
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Extra Crispy
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 36
Finger Lickin' Good
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Mini-Slab
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 128
Wishbone Dihedral
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
The Fracture
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Wank Variation
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
The Crystal Key
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 22
Yellow Dot
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicke…
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bart's Route
 56
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Beaks and Feet
 75
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mini-Splitter
 34
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Extra Crispy
 43
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Finger Lickin' Good
 36
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Mini-Slab
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wishbone Dihedral
 128
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Fracture
 6
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Wank Variation
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Crystal Key
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Yellow Dot
 22
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Those Who Crank & Those Who…
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Chicken Head Ranch »

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