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Chicken Head Ranch Rock Climbing
Routes in Chicken Head Ranch
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Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beaks and Feet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Buzzsaw, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Choker S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chicken Spit S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finger Lickin' Good S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fracture, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Elevation: | 9,247 ft | 2,818 m |
| GPS: |
39.25855, -105.10569 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 54,598 total · 289/month | |
| Shared By: | Kevin Fox on Aug 15, 2010 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
As per Tod's guidebook, this sits in the lower west side. From the trailhead, follow it up to the bridge and fence. Bang a right through the fence, and follow it up through the two switchbacks over the pass. Follow the signage to the Chicken Head Ranch. There is climbing all the way around this crag. You can chase sun or shade. I love the climbing here - the routes are amazing. I would love to know the person that put them up.
Getting There
15 to 20 minute hike.
Per Savanah T:
Approach 1: take the Fire Tower Trail (out of Devil's Head Campground), then it is a 15 to 20 minute hike (not sure this is accurate).
Approach 2: park at MM10 (GPS coordinates: 39.261847, -105.114126), then it is a 30 - 45 minute hike, not accounting for bushwhacking after the winter months.
Per Adam Lind: 7/29/24 update: if you are parking at Devil's Head Fire Lookout lot, it’s about 30 minutes there, uphill, and about 25 minutes back.
When you come to the first fence that’s guiding hikers to go left, go right around the fence on the climber's trail. At the next split, stay right, you’ll see a sign on the way to Chickenhead Ranch, and continue on the path. You’ll see a few more signs to Chickenhead Ranch left and Training Ground right, then Jungle right. You come up the trail to the north face of the rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at Chicken Head Ranch
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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