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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Elevation: 9,247 ft
GPS: 39.259, -105.106 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,521 total · 244/month
Shared By: Kevin Fox on Aug 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

As per Tod's guide this sits in the lower west side. From the trailhead, follow it up to the bridge and fence. Bang a right through the fence and follow it up through the two switchbacks over the pass. Follow the signage to the Chicken Head Ranch. There is climbing all the way around this crag. Can chase sun or shade. love the climbing here. the routes are amazing. would love to know the person that put them up.

Getting There

15 to 20 minute hike.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chicken Head Ranch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Chicken Little
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 54
Beaks and Feet
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 46
Bart's Route
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 26
Mini-Splitter
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 33
Extra Crispy
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 24
Finger Lickin' Good
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 15
Mini-Slab
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 98
Wishbone Dihedral
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Wank Variation
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
The Crystal Key
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 20
Yellow Dot
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chicken Little
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicke…
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Beaks and Feet
 54
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Bart's Route
 46
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Mini-Splitter
 26
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Extra Crispy
 33
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Finger Lickin' Good
 24
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Mini-Slab
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wishbone Dihedral
 98
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Wank Variation
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Crystal Key
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Yellow Dot
 20
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Those Who Crank & Those Who…
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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