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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 409 total · 9/month
Shared By: michalm on Jun 18, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Begin in an overhang on dark and somewhat dirty, but solid, rock. Be secure clipping the second bolt from a jug. A clipping fall would ensure groundfall. Pull out of the overhang and onto a slab up a corner/arete feature. Traverse left just before or at the seam below the roof, clip a few more bolts, and pull the roof from a seam and some underclings on thin but secure feet. Look for the key hold over the lip. Mantel and climb easy slab to the anchors.

It is 5.11 climbing to the roof, V4 boulder problem pulling the roof and manteling, and then easy slab to anchors.

The steep beginning has sporty bolting, and the easy slab seems overbolted.

The rock in the overhangs is still a little dirty but is cleaning up.

The rock at the top and at the lip is sharp and grippy, which is good for traction but bad if you lower instead of rap. This rock will chew up your rope. Toproping is not recommended unless you are creative at eliminating rope drag.

Location

The Crystal Key is a couple routes to the right of Yellow Dot; begin in an overhang on dark, dirty-looking rock. See the guidebook for the exact location.

Protection

15 bolts to welded coldshut anchors.

Photos

aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
I was kind of confused by the two bolts out to the right as well when I tried this route. I'm glad I didn't try going right though, it looked easier to pull the roof on the right, but above the roof it was pretty blank. Oct 18, 2017
I think it was abandoned after sussing the route out and finding the crystal that went better. Still awaits an FA although I don't think it will be easier. Sep 7, 2017
Climb Soft Spray Hard
Colorado Springs
Climb Soft Spray Hard   Colorado Springs
Anybody know what the two bolt variation to the right of the crux section is? Looked like it might be easier but didn't give it a shot. Sep 6, 2017
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
This is a nice, long pitch with really good climbing. The crux is pretty tough if you aren't proficient at manteling. Aug 4, 2014