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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,578 total · 16/month
Shared By: Kevin Fox on Aug 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

The route is the first bolted route on the northwest face. It follows the arete. The route doesn't see much traffic on the upper parts of the route, the rock is still exfoliating. Still it is a fun route.

Location

It is the first bolted route on the left on the Northwest face.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Mike Carrington
Centenntial
Mike Carrington   Centenntial
This route hasn't seen much traffic, because it's only been there about 10 months. Right after it was bolted, I pulled a half person-sized rock off it. Aug 15, 2010
Climbed this yesterday. It was extremely funky, probably because of the exfoliation it's done over the years. There are no chossy feeling holds on it, and the view at the top is great. If you are chasing sun, come here in the afternoon and watch the sunset. Jul 10, 2015
Erin O'Brien  
 
I found the hardest (most committing) moves between bolt 4 and 5. Stick clipping bolt 1 will put your inner chicken at ease. Not very conducive for subsequent climbers to top-rope due to rope drag and angle from the anchor. Aug 29, 2016
Colin Johnston
  5.9+
Colin Johnston  
  5.9+
Funky indeed. The bolt placements had me unsure if I was on the right line for a little bit there. Popped a 0.75 in the horizontal between the 4th and 5th bolt as the fall would've been ugly from there.

Felt harder than Beaks and Feet, FWIW. May 7, 2017

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