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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,601 total, 33/month
Shared By: gordwah on Aug 1, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Absolute classic! To avoid 13b out the roof, go left before the roof FOR AN 11C and go to the anchors of Measure Up! The crux on the 11c is out the super sweet dihedral, go for a jug with your left hand and get another jug with your right & THEN CLIP THE BOLT AT THE TOP OF THE DIHEDRAL. Don't get suckered to clip before the jugs. Tom R. fell off clipping that bolt and almost ripped his teeth out! For the 13b, the crux is out the roof + hanging on. If you don't do this route, you're crazy!

Location

This is on Chicken Head Ranch, see the guidebook for more information!

Protection

8 bolts for the 11c ONLY!! and about 13 bolts on the 13b.

Photos

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slim

  5.13a
slim    
  5.13a
Super fun route. The stemming on the lower half is great, and after you have done it a couple times, you can fly right up it and feel like a hero. The boulder problem at the top had one move on it that really took all of my effort - if you sag the slightest bit it just isn't going to happen. After that, if you can throw the rope through the draw, it is just a matter of hanging on for dear life as you clip the anchors. Not sure what to call it grade wise, it isn't my usual style of route (actually the first time I tried it, I didn't really know if I even liked it that much, but it really grew on me once I started figuring it out). Regardless of grade, I highly recommend it. Aug 13, 2014
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
  5.12c/d
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
  5.12c/d
11b to a full no hands rest before a V5ish crux.... Maybe V6 with the clips...but I think that puts this route in an the honest 12c/d range for me. Fun moves throughout. Jul 21, 2014
Kai Huang
Aurora, CO
 
Kai Huang   Aurora, CO
 
If you left a bail draw on this climb and want it back, let me know. Jul 14, 2013
Falon
Denver, Colorado
Falon   Denver, Colorado
Great route! Felt way easier than 5.13b, maybe 12d, just an opinion. Sep 3, 2012