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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tod Anderson (I think)
Page Views: 236 total · 6/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 28, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is an interesting route that the RRR guide calls the most height-dependent route anywhere. It says the rating could be between 11b and 13a, depending on your reach. I don't think it is quite that bad, but if you are really short, it would be pretty hard.

Begin with not hard, but kind of funky, climbing to get up to the 2nd bolt. Decipher the very few options on an otherwise sheet of glass, and get up to the next bolt. From here, easier climbing up a fun chimney-like feature deposit you in a steep dihedral. Be very careful with the undercling block (don't undercling it if possible...) as you pull around to the right and up to the anchors on 'Those Who Wank...'.

I thought this was around 12a or so for my height (6'1"). One of my partners who is a bit shorter (maybe 5'9" or so) thought it was in the same ballpark. The key is to just execute, don't think, pretty much like always....

Location

It is on the northeast side of Chicken Head Ranch, just before you drop down onto the ledge where 'Wishbone Dihedral' starts. It is just to the right of the bolted arete 'Yellow Dot'.

Protection

Approximately 10 bolts. It is best to just stick clip the 2nd bolt, as that's where the action is. Be careful for a bit of a loose undercling block near the top, just before you pull around to the anchors on the right.

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