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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Matt Allenbach
Page Views: 759 total, 19/month
Shared By: Mike Carrington on Aug 10, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details


Start low where there is a easy crack or traverse in to the right from above the gully. Climb through a slot and step left to the slab. Climb straight up the line of bolts or stay left for an easier variation. Climb right to a stance below a thin finger crack and crank off some good locks and to the chains.


Start about 5 feet right of the large boulder or traverse in from above the gully.




Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
Probably one of my least favorite climbs. It has a lot of rope drag, moss on holds, lichen everywhere, and bushes to push through. I was confused on the "correct" finish, since another route shares an anchor. I went left, but getting on what I would say is the other route to the right looked better. My partner and I both really disliked the climb. It did have some interesting moves on the second and third sections. I think the crux is on the third section where it was decent hands but a committing right foot smear on lichen.

It has 12 bolts plus something for the 2 bolt anchor with chains.

I would consider other 9s and 10s at this wall before this route. Jun 21, 2015