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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Matt Allenbach
Page Views: 759 total, 19/month
Shared By: Mike Carrington on Aug 10, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start low where there is a easy crack or traverse in to the right from above the gully. Climb through a slot and step left to the slab. Climb straight up the line of bolts or stay left for an easier variation. Climb right to a stance below a thin finger crack and crank off some good locks and to the chains.

Location

Start about 5 feet right of the large boulder or traverse in from above the gully.

Protection

Draws.

Photos

Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.10a
Probably one of my least favorite climbs. It has a lot of rope drag, moss on holds, lichen everywhere, and bushes to push through. I was confused on the "correct" finish, since another route shares an anchor. I went left, but getting on what I would say is the other route to the right looked better. My partner and I both really disliked the climb. It did have some interesting moves on the second and third sections. I think the crux is on the third section where it was decent hands but a committing right foot smear on lichen.

It has 12 bolts plus something for the 2 bolt anchor with chains.

I would consider other 9s and 10s at this wall before this route. Jun 21, 2015