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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 599 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Jul 21, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details


This is the farthest right bolt line on the NW face.

1st pitch: (5.9) Follow grooves and big holds past 7 bolts to an anchor behind/right of the detached pillar (or you could just do the 2nd pitch from the same approach ledge as the other routes).

2nd pitch: (5.11a) Ascend awesome, thin face climbing past 9 bolts. This pitch is really fun and pretty sustained. It has steep slab climbing through a couple of bulges on pretty small but sharp crystals. There is a crux bulge between 4th and 5th bolts. The holds get bigger after this, but there are still interesting and entertaining moves all the way to the anchor. This was my favorite route on this wall.


The start is downhill from the other routes on this wall. Locate the bolt line on the pillar....


Bolts and bolt anchors.


Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
Although tricky, this felt easier than Topographical Oceans. Jul 21, 2011
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
The second pitch is much higher quality than the first, and accessible via a short scramble. Aug 10, 2012
Ben Burnett
Ben Burnett   Colorado
Nowhere near 5.11, the crux might be on the "5.9" 1st pitch. Aug 25, 2012
It felt like the crux was pretty low on pitch 2, the 2nd bolt or so. Otherwise, it is pretty cruiser 10b'ish for the 2nd pitch. Jun 16, 2018

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