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Finger Lickin' Good
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.4 from 41
votes
Routes in Chicken Head Ranch
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Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beaks and Feet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Buzzsaw, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Choker S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chicken Spit S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finger Lickin' Good S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fracture, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,774 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roth on Jul 21, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This is the farthest right bolt line on the NW face.
1st pitch: (5.9) Follow grooves and big holds past 7 bolts to an anchor behind/right of the detached pillar (or you could just do the 2nd pitch from the same approach ledge as the other routes).
2nd pitch: (5.11a) Ascend awesome, thin face climbing past 9 bolts. This pitch is really fun and pretty sustained. It has steep slab climbing through a couple of bulges on pretty small but sharp crystals. There is a crux bulge between 4th and 5th bolts. The holds get bigger after this, but there are still interesting and entertaining moves all the way to the anchor. This was my favorite route on this wall.
1st pitch: (5.9) Follow grooves and big holds past 7 bolts to an anchor behind/right of the detached pillar (or you could just do the 2nd pitch from the same approach ledge as the other routes).
2nd pitch: (5.11a) Ascend awesome, thin face climbing past 9 bolts. This pitch is really fun and pretty sustained. It has steep slab climbing through a couple of bulges on pretty small but sharp crystals. There is a crux bulge between 4th and 5th bolts. The holds get bigger after this, but there are still interesting and entertaining moves all the way to the anchor. This was my favorite route on this wall.
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