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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch

Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beaks and Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chicken Spit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Lickin' Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fracture, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tod & Gordon Anderson
Page Views: 472 total, 5/month
Shared By: Garrett Bales on Sep 4, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details


Yellow Dot goes up the arete directly. This has solid 11 climbing to a bouldery, 12 crux midway up, then more 11 to finish.


The route is located on the arete to the right of the giant, bolted, "wishbone" dihedral, on the east face of Chicken Head Ranch.
Got to this route per Tod Anderson's great new guide, "Rampart Range Rocks." Thanks for the fun new climbs, Tod!


11 bolts, includes 2 bolt anchor.


FA- Tod Anderson & Gordon Anderson, yellow is Gordy's favorite color. Nov 26, 2016
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
I'm not sure if something has broken off. About four or five years ago, I led this route cleanly on my first attempt. Yesterday I could not pull the crux at all, after many attempts. I studied it hard, so I don't think I missed any holds. Perhaps I've just gotten stupider (very possible!). Jun 16, 2014

We found this one oddly difficult for 12a at Devil's Head. It seemed considerably more difficult than the other 12a's (or pretty much anything up to 12c for that matter) I've done there. Kind of bizarre.

The climbing just to get up to the crux is fairly in your face. This is some great climbing. The crux seemed pretty low probability, particularly on a hot humid day. It took us a bit to figure something out. I didn't really find the moves in the crux to be that enjoyable, but I typically don't enjoy sloper slapping in the first place, so I am somewhat biased. The climbing above the crux is no gimme either. The holds are pretty bad.

Very interesting route. Aug 1, 2012
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
It's not just you. I thought the crux on this one was really tough for 12a as well. The climb itself was stellar though. May 15, 2012
Having just climbed this route today, I found the crux to be fairly stiff as well; however, I did enjoy pulling the small overhang at the end. Jul 17, 2011
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
Maybe it's just me, but this crux was hard for 12a. Very sequential. But a such a sweet climb! Sep 19, 2010