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Chiefshead Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Chiefshead

Chiefshead Northeast Face 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4

Chiefshead Northwest Face 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 5

Chiefshead South Face 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 7

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Elevation:	13,579 ft	4,139 m
GPS:	40.2491, -105.6414 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	20,989 total · 126/month
Shared By:	Bill Duncan on Apr 3, 2011
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

Chiefshead is located at the head of Glacier Gorge, and stands between Pagoda Mountain to the east and McHenry's Peak to the northwest. The north ridge or central rib of Chiefshead extends northward to become the striking Spearhead formation (12,575). The northwest face and the northeast face contain most of the technical routes, but there are other moderate alpine and snow/ice/mixed routes to be found on the mountain.

Getting There

Park at the Glacier Gorge junction TH or the Bear Lake TH, and follow the trail to Mills' Lake and deeper into Glacier Gorge past Black Lake. Once above timberline, make your way around to the east or west side of the Spearhead. There are good bivy sites here if you have a bivy permit.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chiefshead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R 6 ● 7 Arrows Trad, Alpine Chiefshead Northwest…
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Easy Snow 4 ● Flight of the Kiwi Snow, Alpine 11 pitches Chiefshead Northwest…
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R 81 ● Birds of Fire Trad, Alpine 9 pitches Chiefshead Northwest…
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R 4 ● Ten Little Indians Trad, Alpine 12 pitches Chiefshead Northeast…
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 22 ● Cowboys and Indians Trad, Alpine Chiefshead Northeast…