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Routes in North Six Shooter Peak

Gunsmoke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Lightning Bolt Cracks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Liquid Sky T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Perfect Hands All the Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C2 R
Pratt's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shadows Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southeast Chimney Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13
Talk Dusty To Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Chip Chase, Jeff Achey
Page Views: 7,748 total, 86/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jul 31, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Creeks most classic squeeze.

P1. Splitter thin fingers up to hands and even some chimney. Gear belay at the base of a slot. (5.11)

P2. Fists up a slot and through a bulge to a gear belay at a stance. (5.9)

P3. Offwidth in a corner to an optional belay/ bail anchor, and then tunnel and squeeze up through the back of the roof. (5.11+/.12-) At the top of the squeeze a fist traverse left regains the final chimney of "Lightning Bolt Crack". Very size dependent.

Location

Starts 25' left of "Lightning Bolt Crack"

Protection

Tcu's through #4 big-bro.

Photos

Bryce Gordon  
 
Big Bro #4s and valley giant 12 will protect the squeeze well. Our VG #9 could be placed in only a few select areas at the start of the squeeze. Crux was getting past the initial kink in the squeeze Nov 27, 2017
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.11+
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.11+
Heads up: One of the bolts below the squeeze is loose and pulling out. The remaining bolt and drilled angle seem good.

We thought that #5s were useless on this climb contrary to the topo.

I think a good rack would be:
- 1x .2,.3,.4,2,3,6, green bro, blue bro
- 2x .5,.75,1,4.

A valley giant would protect the lieback below the squeeze (and maybe the squeeze too?). Mar 25, 2017
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
Any more specific gear beta?

Any more specific person-size beta on the squeeze? The Harding Slot on Astroman was tight but I fit, same with the 5.9 X pitch on The Flakes in the Black Canyon. Oct 21, 2015
Matthew Ryan Jones
Minturn, CO
Matthew Ryan Jones   Minturn, CO
You are such a beast Pam. Totally inspiring. Dec 5, 2013
Super psyched to have gone out the roof on Pitch 3 of Liquid Sky today rather than through the squeeze chimney. I started in the squeeze and horizontally sidewinded out the roof proper, did a quick inversion at the constriction toward the lip and then pivoted right side up to get into the vertical past the lip. It was scary. Most exposed inversion of my life and really hard to place gear. Nov 11, 2013
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
I have no clue how many times Liquid Sky has been climbed or how frequently, but to add to this thread and help out those gunning for it (or dissuade them)...Two friends linked up Liquid Sky (the leader onsighted it) and then Lightning Bolt Cracks in a day. See pages 49-50: issuu.com/coloradocollegealpinejournal/docs/ccaj2011. Pretty impressive. I imagine most would agree. Jul 19, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
good thread on additional beta
mountainproject.com/v/liqui… Dec 14, 2012