Type: Trad, 150 ft, Grade II
FA: 1968
Page Views: 952 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Apr 8, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Contributor's Note: I'll work on this page more after my upcoming shoulder surgery, April, 2015. Photos, maps, better beta and history bits too.

This is a classic toe-heel and chicken-wing crack that leads directly to the notch on the Southwest Chimney route. Only one pitch to the notch because this side of the tower is shorter.

Five-ten offwidth begins the route. After a bit, one can get into the chimney. Belay in the notch. Reach the summit via the bolts of the original route.

Descend by rappelling into the notch and then down the original route


On the shady west side of North Sixshooter Peak - side opposite of Lightning Bolt Crack.


The only pro for the start used to be your arm bar technique and the ability to puff up your body like a chuckwalla to stay wedged in the crevice.

Maybe a Valley Giant? I wonder if Big Bros work in the very straight sided crack?


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