Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), Grade II
GPS: 38.13741, -109.66805
FA: 1968
Page Views: 2,307 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Apr 8, 2015
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher
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Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Contributor's Note: I'll work on this page more after my upcoming shoulder surgery, April, 2015. Photos, maps, better beta and history bits too.

This is a classic toe-heel and chicken-wing crack that leads directly to the notch on the Southwest Chimney route. Only one pitch to the notch because this side of the tower is shorter.

Five-ten offwidth begins the route. After a bit, one can get into the chimney. Belay in the notch. Reach the summit via the bolts of the original route.

Descend by rappelling into the notch and then down the original route

Location Suggest change

On the shady west side of North Sixshooter Peak - side opposite of Lightning Bolt Crack.

Protection Suggest change

The only pro for the start used to be your arm bar technique and the ability to puff up your body like a chuckwalla to stay wedged in the crevice.

Maybe a Valley Giant? I wonder if Big Bros work in the very straight sided crack?

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Photos

Michael Kennedy on the Pratt Crack as Ken Sims and Greg Davis look helplessly on.
Michael Kennedy on the Pratt Crack as Ken Sims…
 28
Continue on up the 2nd pitch to the summit via the aid bolt ladder if you dare... (3rd pitch of Southeast Chimney Route)
Continue on up the 2nd pitch to the summit via…
 1
The route is the obvious gash that leads to a notch between the two tallest towers.
The route is the obvious gash that leads to a n…
 0
Continue on up the 2nd pitch to the summit via the aid bolt ladder if you dare... taken from when we were rapping N Six Shooter. (3rd pitch of Southeast Chimney Route)
Continue on up the 2nd pitch to the summit via…
 0
View from the top of the first pitch, which is the top of the 2nd rappel off of North Six Shooter.
View from the top of the first pitch, which is…
 0
The route from the base. No topo needed. ;-P
The route from the base. No topo needed. ;-P
 0
There are a lot of good cheater holds outside the chimney that make it easy. It is better to climb partway out to use them and have more room to move. You can still reach in and push up a #8 cam with you. This is like a 5.7-5.8 chimney.
There are a lot of good cheater holds outside t…
 0
There are a lot of good cheater holds outside the chimney that make it easy. It is better to climb partway out to use them and have more room to move. You can still reach in and push up a #8 cam with you. This is like a 5.7-5.8 chimney.
There are a lot of good cheater holds outside t…
 0
Entering the squeeze. I was shortly squeezed out. ;-P
Entering the squeeze. I was shortly squeezed ou…
 0
Almost to the #0.75 placement, allowing you to back clean the cam and re-use it after the bird shit for a tad longer before reaching the squeeze.
Almost to the #0.75 placement, allowing you to…
 0
First piece of pro, pushy push.
First piece of pro, pushy push.
 0

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