Elevation: 11,466 ft
GPS: 46.529, 8.13 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Bill Flaherty on Sep 28, 2008 with improvements by Jacek Czyz and 1 other
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.


Quite possibly the best country in the world for a climber to visit. Take your pick: granite, limestone, or gneiss - all of it splitter, and most of it bolted. Walls tend to be big, and if you're coming from North America, the vertical relief will take some getting used to. The hut system is great, providing quick access to climbs and hearty fare at a reasonable price.
www.salbit.ch). There are many routes in the 500-700 foot range - along with a few marathon routes over 2,000 feet. You supplement the almost-adequate bolts with cams. Rock quality is superb. The hutkeeper, Hans Berger, whips up killer food and has one heck of an alpine resume.
Melchsee-Frutt is a gorgeous mountain getaway that serves as a popular ski area in winter. In summer, you can enjoy the most pristine limestone walls I've ever seen. Varying in height, with many sections nearly 1,000 feet tall, they are supremely well-bolted.

For gneiss, there is a mongo slab just below the famous granite area of Grimsel Pass. Get your slab-climbing mojo on, as the bolts are very sparse, and some are rather old.

Of course you can get scared and cold at the same time climbing famous alpine walls like the Eiger North Face, but someone else will need to log on to explain why that's fun.

Beyond the climbing, Switzerland offers a unique opportunity to sample Italian, French, and German language, cuisine, and culture in its various regions. Well worth a visit!

Goals of these pages

There is so much rock in Switzerland. Too much for one website to describe comprehensively! The goal of these pages is to document many of the most worthwhile climbing areas (sport, trad; alpine and single pitch, and a bit of bouldering) and with useful details for some of the best routes. Hopefully this will be useful for visitors in getting oriented.

That said, if you want to add routes for your ticklist, please go ahead!

A note on geographic organization:

Here the areas are listed alphabetically, but other information can be found about areas organized:
- by canton (topodb.ch, rockclimbing.com/routes/Eur… )
- by region and type of climbing (scalamalade-areas.com/en/ )
- by north, east, south, west (the Filidor guidebooks, and chmoser.ch/ )

More reference websites:

UKClimbing - look at logbook for crags (e.g., Salbit climbs )
Gipfelbuch - Great for conditions on alpine routes
Chmoser - Excellent personal logbook of a dedicated climber, with detailed descriptions of some routes (in German)
Scalamalade-areas - Overview of some areas, no detailed route information, but good for getting ideas of where to go
Topodb.ch - List of climbing routes by canton, region, area, sometimes with topos
hikr.org - Some alpine routes / many peaks detailed here, with condition reports
summitpost.org  - Some mountains / crags detailed here
kletterportal.ch - for finding partners
camptocamp.org - Alpine focused site, good for finding climbing near a specific point


There are a ton of books you could get. For visiting climbers interested in alpine multipitch tours and single pitch sport climbing, the most useful books are the Filidor series, which divides the country into four broad regions (east, west, Jura, and south).
Plaisir West and Plaisir Ost might be the two most useful books to start with. Newer and forthcoming versions have English, otherwise you can more or less figure it out.
Gastlosen in Bern, Valsertal in Grabünden, or the canton of Glarus.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Switzerland

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
Blue Sky of MIne
V8 7B
Grit deluxe
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Hörnligrat Route
Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nordkante (North Ridge)
Trad, Alpine 25 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
Mittellegi Ridge 5b
Aid, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NE Grat
Trad, Sport 11 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ostegg Hut to Mittellegi Hut (lo…
Trad, Alpine
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Fiamma
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hermelin 6a
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blauer Käfer 6a+
Sport 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad 14 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via Leni 6b
Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Salbit Westridge
Trad, Alpine 32 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Die Maenner von Memmental 7a+
Sport 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Blue Sky of MIne Magic Wood > Kamel
V3 6A Boulder
Grit deluxe Magic Wood > Beach
V8 7B Boulder
Hörnligrat Route Zermatt area > Matterhorn
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad, Alpine
Egg Zermatt area > Riffelhorn
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
Nordkante (North Ridge) Bergell > Piz Badile, North-E Wall
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 25 pitches
Mittellegi Ridge 5b Eiger
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0 Aid, Alpine
NE Grat Zervreilahorn
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 11 pitches
Ostegg Hut to Mittellegi Hu… Eiger
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
La Fiamma Albigna Valley > Spazzacaldeira
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Hermelin 6a Melchtal > Bonistock / Melchsee-…
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blauer Käfer 6a+ Melchtal > Cheselenflue
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 6 pitches
Motörhead Grimsel > Eldorado
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 14 pitches
Via Leni 6b Albigna Valley > Spazzacaldeira
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
Salbit Westridge Göschenertal > Salbitschijen > Salbitschijen Westridge
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 32 pitches
Die Maenner von Memmental 7a+ Melchtal > Cheselenflue
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 5 pitches
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