Switzerland Rock Climbing
Areas in Switzerland
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|Shared By:||Bill Flaherty on Sep 28, 2008 · Updates|
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If you're a fan of granite, check out Salbit (www.salbit.ch). There are many routes in the 500-700 foot range - along with a few marathon routes over 2,000 feet. You supplement the almost-adequate bolts with cams. Rock quality is superb. The hutkeeper, Hans Berger, whips up killer food and has one heck of an alpine resume.
For limestone, Melchsee-Frutt is a gorgeous mountain getaway that serves as a popular ski area in winter. In summer, you can enjoy the most pristine limestone walls I've ever seen. Varying in height, with many sections nearly 1,000 feet tall, they are supremely well-bolted.
For gneiss, there is a mongo slab just below the famous granite area of Grimsel Pass. Get your slab-climbing mojo on, as the bolts are very sparse, and some are rather old.
Of course you can get scared and cold at the same time climbing famous alpine walls like the Eiger North Face, but someone else will need to log on to explain why that's fun.
Beyond the climbing, Switzerland offers a unique opportunity to sample Italian, French, and German language, cuisine, and culture in its various regions. Well worth a visit!
There is so much rock in Switzerland. Too much for one website to describe comprehensively! The goal of these pages is to document many of the most worthwhile climbing areas (sport, trad; alpine and single pitch, and a bit of bouldering) and with useful details for some of the best routes. Hopefully this will be useful for visitors in getting oriented.
That said, if you want to add routes for your ticklist, please go ahead!
A note on geographic organization:
Here the areas are listed alphabetically, but other information can be found about areas organized:
- by region and type of climbing (scalamalade-areas.com/en/ )
- by north, east, south, west (the Filidor guidebooks, and chmoser.ch/ )
More reference websites:
Swiss Alpine Club guidebooks - Climbing and alpinism guidebooks by the Swiss Alpine Club. Not all are in English but many are.
UKClimbing - look at logbook for crags (e.g., Salbit climbs )
Gipfelbuch - Great for conditions on alpine routes
Chmoser - Excellent personal logbook of a dedicated climber, with detailed descriptions of some routes (in German)
Scalamalade-areas - Overview of some areas, no detailed route information, but good for getting ideas of where to go
Topodb.ch - List of climbing routes by canton, region, area, sometimes with topos
hikr.org - Some alpine routes / many peaks detailed here, with condition reports
summitpost.org - Some mountains / crags detailed here
kletterportal.ch - for finding partners
camptocamp.org - Alpine focused site, good for finding climbing near a specific point
The series is divided into 'Plaisir' and 'Extrem' volumes, with the former covering areas emphasizing up to 6b (5.10b) climbing, and the latter covering areas dominated by the harder climbs. But plaisir areas still include topos for climbs up to 7a (5.11d) and even harder, while extrem areas may still have some 5c climbs in there.
Plaisir West and Plaisir Ost might be the two most useful books to start with. Newer and forthcoming versions have English, otherwise you can more or less figure it out.
The Swiss Alpine Club has its own series of guidebooks, which are massive, detailed, and pricy. These are generally more localized by canton, but great references if you know exactly where you want to go.
And then there are specialized books for areas like Gastlosen in Bern, Valsertal in Grabünden, or the canton of Glarus.
Classic Climbing Routes at Switzerland
|Route Name||Location||Star Rating||Difficulty||Date|
|● Blue Sky of MIne||Magic Wood > Kamel||
|V3 6A Boulder|
|● Grit deluxe||Magic Wood > Beach||
|V8 7B Boulder|
|● Hörnligrat Route||Zermatt area > Matterhorn||
|5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad, Alpine|
|● Mittellegi Ridge 5b||Eiger||
|5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0 Aid, Alpine|
|● Via Fritz (5b+ / 5c)||Steingletscher > Pfriendler||
|5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine 7 pitches|
|● NE Grat||Zervreilahorn||
|5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 11 pitches|
|● Ostegg Hut to Mittellegi Hu…||Eiger||
|5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine|
|● La Fiamma||Albigna Valley > Spazzacaldeira||
|5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, Alpine|
|● Hermelin 6a||Melchtal > Bonistock / Melchsee-…||
|5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport|
|● Motörhead||Grimsel > Eldorado||
|5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 14 pitches|
|● Via Leni 6b||Albigna Valley > Spazzacaldeira||
|5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 6 pitches|
|● Salbit Westridge||Göschenertal > Salbitschijen > Salbitschijen Westridge||
|5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 32 pitches|
|● Patent Ochsner||Wendenstöcke > Pfaffenhut||
|5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, Alpine 13 pitches|
|● Die Maenner von Memmental 7a+||Melchtal > Cheselenflue||
|5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 5 pitches|
|● Intifada||Rätikon > Schweizereck||
|5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches|
Days w Precip