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Routes in Piz Badile, North-East Wall

Via Cassin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

The most impressive and aesthetic site of the Piz Badile. With nearly 1000 m of vertical relief, this face is considered one of the six great north faces of the Alps. Home of about twenty routes. Difficulties from the easiest 6a (5.9, Cassin) to ABO (obligatory 7a, 5.11+). Generally routes on right site are shorter, easier and terminated like Cassin on North Ridge far away from the summit. They climb beautiful granite slabs. Some runouts exist. The first and most popular route on the north-east face is the Cassin Route (5a/A0 or 6a) climbed 14–16 July 1937 by Riccardo Cassin’s team.

Getting There

Climbs are accessed from either the Sciora Hut or Sasc Furä Hut both of which are reached from Promontogno / Bondo (ca 800m). First 500m of gain/ca 4km to Laret (trail splitting) you can drive payed route for 12CHF or so. From Laret to Sciora Hut (2118 m) is about a 2 ½ -hour hike and next 1-2h for Sciora, or 1-1 ¼ h for N-E Wall of Piz Badile and Piz Cengalo (after rock fall some red flag maybe - check at locals). The Sasc Furä Hut (1,904 m, main hut for Badile) is about 1 ¾ -2h step hike above Laret and next 1-1 ½ h at end steeper scramble class3-4 to the base of North Ridge 2589m.

1 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Piz Badile, North-East Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Cassin
Trad, Alpine 22 pitches
Via Cassin 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 22 pitches
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