Type: Aid, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade IV
FA: Yuko Maki, Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand, and Fritz Steuri, 10 Sept 1921.
Page Views: 15,157 total · 132/month
Shared By: Brian on Sep 24, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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Classic alpine route. Spectacular climb with thousands of feet of exposure down either side of the ridge. The Mittellegi is a very worthy consolation prize should the north or northeast face be out of condition. Highly recommended.


You have to traverse the mountain to get up and down it. The best strategy is to take the train up to the stop at the Eismeer glacier and go out the tunnel there and rap, or down climb depending on snow level, to the glacier. Traverse the glacier and climb to the Mittellegi hut. Spend the night there. Climb the route to the summit. Take the South Ridge Route down traverse around the Monch to the Monch hut and spend the night there. The next day take the train down from the Jungfraujoch or hike down.


Light alpine rack. One 60m 9mm rope. There are a lot of fixed ropes put there by the guides but not to be underestimated due to its length.