Albigna Valley Rock Climbing
Areas in Albigna Valley
Biopfeiler 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Piz Balzet 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Pizzo Balzetto 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Placche del Lago aka Seeplatten 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Punta Albigna 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Spazzacaldeira 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 7
Torre del Piz dal Päl 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
|GPS:||46.33, 9.655 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Adam Sabic on Sep 21, 2009|
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DescriptionAlbigna Valley offers fun, enjoyable climbing on short to medium length routes in a spectacular alpine setting. The climbing consists of mainly steep slabs on beautifully textured granite offering fantastic friction that is said to resemble the granite domes of Tuolumne Meadows in California. Most of the routes have first rate double bolt belays, at good stances, and because some of the pitches are only partially bolted, a light alpine rack would be a good idea.
The cable car up to the valley offers quick and easy access to the Albigna Hut where many of the climbs are accessed from. Members of alpine clubs having reciprocal rights with the Swiss Alpine-Club get discount rates in huts (we paid about 50 francs). Half board covers accommodation (bedding provided), dinner and breakfast (Beer is extra and expensive!). This means you are only ever carrying climbing gear, lunch, and layering allowing you to travel light and fast. Although climbing crowds are quiet to moderate (weekdays), the hut is on a popular hiking trail so should be booked in advance.
Alternatively, Camping Mulina at Vicosoprano is a mile down the road from the cable-car station at Pranzaira. Expect at least an hours hike from the cable car station at Albigna Dam to most of the climbs.
Theres a restaurant offering great pizza and beer on the main road between Camping Mulina and Pranzaira.
Although this is mainly considered as an area for acclimatizing before hitting the nearby Sciora and Piz Badile, this area offers fantastic climbing in its own right.
Two good guides are:
Bregaglia Climbing '09: Albigna (2009) PDF File by Chris Mellor. Available for download in PDF for US $5 from Tradebit: https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/110081553-bregaglia-climbing-albigna-chris-mellor
Schweiz Plaisir Sud by Jurg Von Kanel, published by Edition Filidor in 1998 (French, Italian and German), ISBN 3-906087-09-3
Classic Climbing Routes at Albigna Valley
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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