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Elevation: 7,656 ft 2,334 m
GPS: 46.3299, 9.6551
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Shared By: Adam Sabic on Sep 21, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

Description Suggest change

Albigna Valley offers fun, enjoyable climbing on short to medium length routes in a spectacular alpine setting. The climbing consists of mainly steep slabs on beautifully textured granite offering fantastic friction that is said to resemble the granite domes of Tuolumne Meadows in California. Most of the routes have first rate double bolt belays, at good stances, and because some of the pitches are only partially bolted, a light alpine rack would be a good idea.

The cable car up to the valley offers quick and easy access to the Albigna Hut where many of the climbs are accessed from. Members of alpine clubs having reciprocal rights with the Swiss Alpine-Club get discount rates in huts (we paid about 50 francs). Half board covers accommodation (bedding provided), dinner and breakfast (Beer is extra and expensive!). This means you are only ever carrying climbing gear, lunch, and layering allowing you to travel light and fast. Although climbing crowds are quiet to moderate (weekdays), the hut is on a popular hiking trail so should be booked in advance.

Alternatively, Camping Mulina at Vicosoprano is a mile down the road from the cable-car station at Pranzaira. Expect at least an hour’s hike from the cable car station at Albigna Dam to most of the climbs.

There’s a restaurant offering great pizza and beer on the main road between Camping Mulina and Pranzaira.

Although this is mainly considered as an area for acclimatizing before hitting the nearby Sciora and Piz Badile, this area offers fantastic climbing in its own right.

Two good guides are:
Bregaglia Climbing '09: Albigna (2009) PDF File by Chris Mellor. Available for download in PDF for US $5 from Tradebit:…
Schweiz Plaisir Sud by Jurg Von Kanel, published by Edition Filidor in 1998 (French, Italian and German), ISBN – 3-906087-09-3

Getting There Suggest change

The climbing routes of the Albigna region are normally reached by ridging up the Albigna lift to the bottom of the dam across the N side of Lake Albigna.

Albigna lift bottom station (with nearby Parking) - (GPS lat long approx N46.3582 E9.6440) - is on Switzerland national route 3 ...
E up from Italy / Switz frontier which is E up from city of Chiavenna near N end of the Como / Lecco Lakes,
or ...
SW gentle along Engadin lakes from cities of St Moritz + Silvaplana (which can be reached south from Zurich through Chur over Julier Pass) -- then SW down steep from Maloja Pass. The lift parking is near Pranzaira a bit NE above the town of Vicosoprano and Camping Mulina.
Lift operating summer hours 2019: morning 7:00-11:30 / afternoon 13:15-16:45
Top station of lift (N46.33792 E9.6456) has small waiting area, but no food or drink.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Albigna Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Fiamma
Sport, Alpine
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via Leni 6b
Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via Felice 6a
Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
La Fiamma Spazzacaldeira
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Via Leni 6b Spazzacaldeira
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
Via Felice 6a Spazzacaldeira
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
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