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Routes in Eldorado

Motörhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Métal hurlant T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 1600 ft, 14 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Yves and Claude Remy
Page Views: 6,461 total · 65/month
Shared By: Tom Baerfuss on Aug 30, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route


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Description

Motörhead was one of the first routes of Eldorado. It's THE classic line which follows an obvious crack system.

Descent is by walk off, down a gully to the right of the wall.

Location

Main wall on the middle to left side. The start is marked

Protection

All anchors are equipped with two bolts. Additional you'll find 30-35 bolts. A set of Rocks and Camelots (o.3-3) complements the fixed pro.

Photos

Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10b
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10b
Possibly the best rock-climb in Europe?

Double ropes useful in case abseil retreat is necessary. Jun 21, 2011
Not one of the worst. Apr 29, 2016
colussiv
  5.10
colussiv  
  5.10
Fantastic route. Make sure you get there early for a place in line! For gear, I brought cams .3-.75 (x2), 1, 2 and a rack of offset HB nuts plus a few brassies. Here's the pitch breakdown for anyone interested. Grades are taken from the book "Dreams of Switzerland" by the SAC.

P1: Easy low-angle climbing up to a ledge (4c).
P2: Angle right from the belay to a ledge, and begin friction climbing past a few bolts. Some spicy moves well above the last bolt takes you to another ledge and a short corner. This ends at another good belay ledge (5c+).
P3: Up the left-facing corner and step left as the seam pinches down near the top. Easy climbing to a hanging belay. I found brassies useful for the flaring crack (6b).
P4: Easy climbing straight up to a ledge under the start of left-facing corner ramp (4c).
P5: Climb the ramp/corner to another good belay ledge (5b).
P6: Straight up on parallel cracks to a bolt. I moved out right here on a crescent hold to easier climbing on a ramp with flakes. It looked like you could also continue straight up on harder runout face climbing. At the end of the ramp, fire up an unprotected flake to a bolt and then up the left-facing corner on good locks to a belay stance (6a+).
P7: Up a very flared left-facing corner to a stance. Then continue up a very cool flared section with poor feet to the anchor (6a+).
P8: Escape the corner system by climbing on the right face from the anchor towards the lone bolt. Clip the bolt and make some moves to get established on lower-angled terrain. Follow this up to a short layback sequence and the belay (6b).
P9: Easy climbing straight up to get established on lower angle terrain at a comfortable belay. (5a)
P10: Friction climbing towards a bolt. Then angle slightly up and right keeping the line of least resistance as the angle steepens. Bypass the roof on the right to a ledge and then easy climbing straight up to a good belay ledge. (5b)
P11: Angle right aiming towards the large flake above leading to the start of another left-facing corner system. There are a few bolts at the beginning to guide your way. Traverse right on a quartz system to get established under the flake. Climb the flake and then a short traverse left at its top to reach the belay. (5c+)
P12: A thin left-facing corner that offers with a few hidden stances. At the top make a few tough layback moves protected by the bolt to get established under the roof and bypass it to the left. Follow the easy slab up the ramp. Your exit here is not the crack that angles out of the slab, rather follow the slab a ways to some flakes with a bolt, and take this up to the belay. Also do not get sucked into the roof/corner at the end of the slab, which is another route and is more difficult climbing. (6b)
P13: Straight up on flared cracks through bolts and pitons to a belay. (6a)
P14: Easy friction climbing to the summit.
(P13-P14 can be linked with a 60m.) Jul 21, 2018

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