Nordkante (North Ridge)

The classic alpine ridge. Lots of roped scrambling punctuated by technical bits.

Two 'crux' pitches at c. 1/3 and 2/3 height. Best beta is to hug the ridge as close as possible. Bolts will guide you through the few cruces.

The starting Notch for the N Ridge and the traverse to all the routes on the NE face is 1.5 hours up a climbers trail from the Sasc Fura Hut. The last 20 minutes of this is an exposed scramble up sometimes wet slabs. 4th class. From the notch gain the obvious ridge. Don't worry about getting lost. There will be a line stretching from the hut to the notch and the notch to the top. Descent options are unplesent. One can absail the N. Ridge back to the Sasc Fura hut (~25 full length absails) or one can descend the SE face to the Gianetti Hut in Italy. This is achieved by a series of absails and scrambles along the right (facing SE) edge of an obvious couloir.

Bolted belays, alpine rack. The route has bolts near all difficult sections and would take as much gear as you wanted, but a light/fast rack is the most enjoyable way to climb it. Double ropes.