Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bergell

Nordkante (North Ridge) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Punta Torelli T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 3000 ft, 25 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 186 total, 3/month
Shared By: ZachStone on Nov 20, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The classic alpine ridge. Lots of roped scrambling punctuated by technical bits.

Two 'crux' pitches at c. 1/3 and 2/3 height. Best beta is to hug the ridge as close as possible. Bolts will guide you through the few cruces.

Location

The starting Notch for the N Ridge and the traverse to all the routes on the NE face is 1.5 hours up a climbers trail from the Sasc Fura Hut. The last 20 minutes of this is an exposed scramble up sometimes wet slabs. 4th class. From the notch gain the obvious ridge. Don't worry about getting lost. There will be a line stretching from the hut to the notch and the notch to the top. Descent options are unplesent. One can absail the N. Ridge back to the Sasc Fura hut (~25 full length absails) or one can descend the SE face to the Gianetti Hut in Italy. This is achieved by a series of absails and scrambles along the right (facing SE) edge of an obvious couloir.

Protection

Bolted belays, alpine rack. The route has bolts near all difficult sections and would take as much gear as you wanted, but a light/fast rack is the most enjoyable way to climb it. Double ropes.

Photos

Dan Flynn   MA  
See the Swiss pages for Bergell here!

"Unpleasant" descent?? Just rappelling, pretty normal from the top of a big route! Jul 21, 2016
Jacek Czyz
Chicago, Summit CO; PL
 
Jacek Czyz   Chicago, Summit CO; PL
 
Nordkante is in Switzerland, not Italy Feb 14, 2015