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Elevation: 10,638 ft 3,242 m
GPS: 40.2655, -105.64137
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 442,962 total · 2,496/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Oct 19, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The west slope of Long's Peak drops 3000 feet into a rugged basin at the head of Glacier Gorge known as the Black Lake Cirque. Some of the most impressive walls and spires in Rocky Mountain National Park are found here towering above fields of wild flowers, ice-scoured slabs and jewel-like lakes comprising an alpine paradise of exceptional beauty (except for the mosquitoes). The rim of Glacier Gorge is formed by Half Mountain, Storm Peak and Long's Peak on the east; Keyboard of the Winds, Pagoda Mountain and Chief's Head Peak on the south; and by McHenry's Peak, Powell Peak and Thatchtop Mountain on the west. Spearhead and Arrowhead are satellite or island peaks within the rim of the gorge.

Getting There Suggest change

Begin from the Glacier Gorge Bus Stop (Trailhead) and follow the Glacier Gorge Trail to Black Lake. A useful shortcut branches right from the main trail just after the 4th stream crossing (about .55 mile) and regains the main trail just east of the Loch Vale Junction. As soon as you cross the log bridge over Icy Brook, you are in Glacier Gorge. This great trail continues to Mills Lake, Jewel Lake and eventually to Black Lake. From Black Lake the trail climbs along a beautiful cascade SE into the basin above Black Lake. From here, cairns indicate the line of least resistance into the upper cirque.

There is also a steep path that leads to Shelf Lake and Solitude Lake. This trail (never built) breaks right from the Glacier Gorge Trail after about 4 miles in some old avalanche debris. Cross Glacier Creek on large flat boulders and the find the start to the trail in the trees. This is less than obvious.

81 Total Climbs

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Location: Glacier Gorge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Glacier Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 21
A Walk In The Park
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 364
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 31
Crescent Ridge
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 22
Glacier Gorge Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 240
Sykes' Sickle
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 323
The Barb
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 73
Birds of Fire
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 55
Arrowplane
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 20
Cowboys and Indians
Trad, Alpine
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 38
The Kingfisher
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 25
Airhead
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 64
Spear Me the Details
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Ithaca
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Stone Monkey
Trad, Alpine
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 37
All Two Obvious
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A Walk In The Park A Walk in The Park
 21
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
North Ridge Spearhead
 364
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Crescent Ridge Pagoda Mountain
 31
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Glacier Gorge Traverse Arrowhead
 22
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
Sykes' Sickle Spearhead
 240
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
The Barb Spearhead
 323
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Birds of Fire Chiefshead > Chiefshead Northwest…
 73
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Arrowplane Arrowhead
 55
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Cowboys and Indians Chiefshead > Chiefshead Northeast…
 20
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine
The Kingfisher Spearhead
 38
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Airhead Arrowhead
 25
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Spear Me the Details Spearhead
 64
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Ithaca Arrowhead
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Stone Monkey Spearhead
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine
All Two Obvious Spearhead
 37
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
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