Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
Routes in Spearhead
|Age Axe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|All Two Obvious T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Barb, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|East Prow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Obviously Four Believers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Prowess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Spear Me the Details T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stone Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Syke's Sickle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Ten Essentials, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Three Stoners T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, Grade III|
|FA:||Chace and Stone,1985|
|Page Views:||3,822 total, 19/month|
|Shared By:||slevin on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionNamed after the rogue-trickster Stone Monkey of 16th Century Asian literature, this climb provides one of the best difficult trad leads in RMNP.
On the left side of the wall find a 5.9 dihedral leading to Middle Earth ledge, or an easier variation just left of this (it is possible to third class to ME ledge in this area).
Climb an easy ramp that forms the right of two prominent dihedrals, belaying before a right-facing flake. Climb the flake (5.9ish) to its top, then scratch right across a blank wall to a semi-hanging belay (good 5.10, no pro, exciting swinging opportunities for both the leader and second). Climb the flake system up right and continue to a good ledge and belay. Pitch 5 is the business, a 5.9 undercling to a right-facing corner which leads to the sustained, under-vertical tips crack (crux). The climbing is more face climbing than a finger crack, although there are finger jams to be had - if you have tiny digits, you will be happy. Small gear (many RPs), good shoes, and positive thinking will bring you to another nice belay ledge, with hard-to-find anchors but nice wildflowers. Above is a longish 5.8 crack pitch which leads to easier climbing to exit.
Early season the crux crack can seep. This has much average climbing, but the crux pitch is stellar.
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