Obviously Four Believers
Avg: 2.5 from 11 votes
Routes in Spearhead
|Age Axe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|All Two Obvious T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Barb, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|East Prow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Obviously Four Believers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Prowess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Spear Me the Details T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stone Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Syke's Sickle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Ten Essentials, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Three Stoners T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, Grade IV|
|FA:||Covington et al. FFA is disputed.|
|Page Views:||2,975 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||slevin on Aug 3, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionA nice long route to do if you want more challenge than the Barb or Age Axe. Good climbing, varied, and just enough excitment to keep you focused. Easier than Statospear, the Feiges Direct on the Barb, and Spear Me The Details. Not as popular as it deserves to be, I suspect due to the Eye of Mordor section which seeps in even the driest years. My description differs from the guidebooks, particularly in how one accesses the Eye, the obvious eliptical feature in the lower left quadrant of the wall.
P1: From the left side of the wall climb a long easy pitch to a double ledge system.
P2: Continue up right a bit to the highest terrace, about even with the start of the Eye to your left.
P3: Climb up to an obvious left-diagonal crack in the slab (runout 5.8, a 2.5 Flex Friend placement can be found) which leads to the right side of the Eye of Mordor about a third of the way up it. Continue to the top (wet) and a belay at 2 fixed pins. Rated 5.9+ in guidebooks but perhaps solid 5.10.
P4: Follow 5.8 flakes up and slightly left, then belay on a large ledge well left at rap anchors (three raps to the ground).
P5: Now move back right 30 feet to a R-facing corner with a spot of 5.9 and 3 fixed pins. Belay in a circular niche from 2.5 to 3.5" cams.
P6: Move left on unprotected 5.8 or 5.9 face, then follow an easier crack to a stance at slings and 2 old bolts.
P7: Clip a bolt and do a difficult standup move off a flake to a second bolt. Follow a long undercling left (5.10-), then up to a good ledge.
P8: Step left, then follow a nice crack system (5.9) to an overhang, step left, and head for the top.