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Routes in Spearhead

Age Axe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Two Obvious T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Barb, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Prow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Obviously Four Believers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prowess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear Me the Details T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Syke's Sickle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ten Essentials, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Stoners T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Davis & Winkelman - 1993
Page Views: 7,243 total, 48/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 27, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

All Two Obvious is a great line up the center of Spearhead - the pitches link various features up the wall and for that reason the line is somewhat discontinuous both in terms of direction as well as difficulty. I didn't think it was as good as it's neighbor, Spear Me the Ducktails, but that said, there are some fantastic pitches.

Choose whatever approach pitch you like to get to Middle Earth Ledge and begin just below the left side of the Eye of Mordor.

1: Climb up into a left-facing flake system, undercling left, continue up flakes up and right to a belay ledge just below a 5' long splitter finger crack. 5.9

2: Climb up and right (a good 20' or so right) to another ledge system just below a left-leaning, slightly offset RP seam. This seam is invisible from the previous belay. Note that the guidebook indicates the presence of a pin which is nonexistant. Protect the starting moves with good RP's, then run it out a few feet to more good placements (5.10d with ledgefall potential). Head right on easy ground to a nice ledge and belay at two pins.

3: Climb up and undercling right along the obvious flake, then face climb above to reach another flake system which is followed to a belay stance at right. 5.9 s

4: Continue up the right-facing shallow flake system that becomes a flaring slot of sorts with tricky/limited pro for the first 50' or so. Trend left past two pins in flakes to the obvious circular feature. Belay here (hand size cams) or link with the next pitch (judicious use of runners and pro).

5: Probably the best pitch on the route. Pull out of the circular belay on bomber 5.10- fingerlocks and faceholds. Follow the finger crack up until you can step into a left-facing corner. Follow this to a two-bolt belay out right below the crux pitch.

6: 3 bolts protect the balancey, Not So Obvious moves off the belay; some tricky micro-routefinding leads to a tough pull up into a shallow left-facing corner. Head up this corner and step right into a second corner system - this one protected by another three bolts to another bolted belay. This pitch is a safe lead but would be difficult to French Free. 5.11d, maybe 12a.

7: 4 bolts protect some nice 5.11- face/slab climbing that leads to broken corners/cracks and the summit ledge. This is a short pitch and ends at a bolted belay anchor.

Rap the route with two ropes (staying mostly left of the route) or walk off.

Protection

Double RPs, wires, one set of cams to #2 Camalot, and few extra TCUs or Aliens.
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12a
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12a
Going low on the crux pitch is crucial. What a great route! Offsets are nice, too. Aug 6, 2017
Some footage of Glacier Gorge, All Two Obvious, Spearhead summit, Ariana:

youtu.be/k_-1HhlN10Y Sep 1, 2015
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.12a R
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.12a R
This is a fantastic climb, one of my favorite routes of all time.
The final four pitches are spectacular. There are two difficult sections on the crux pitch. The first involves foot intensive slab work and the second is a very powerful pull into the dihedral. I think this last move is the hardest single move on the pitch. Jul 19, 2010
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
I found the crux of All Two Obvious to be slightly easier than the start of Spear Me The Details' crux pitch. All Two Obvious is more slabby though at the hard part so maybe it's just that my sticky rubber is more effective than my skinny arms. Moving right through this section is definitely the key with technical and sequential footwork.
Overall this is a spectacular route, and the final 3 pitches are truly brilliant. Jun 24, 2007
12a in my opinion. I tried moving staight up from the second bolt at the crux and it was very difficult. After taking a 15 footer, I headed right from the second bolt which felt a bit easier. Great route. Jun 18, 2007
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
I climbed this route on 8/16/05 following Phil Gruber the whole way. Very high quality above Middle Earth Ledge, and highly recommended.

We combined pitches 1 & 2 with about 50' of simul-climbing on 50M ropes. We combined pitches 3 & 4 without simul-climbing, but the climbing on these pitches is somewhat awkward and runout, but also beautiful.

Pitches 5 & 6 are superb and well worth the experience. Pitch 7 is also very good, and a little harder than it appears from the belay. Sep 3, 2005