All Two Obvious
Avg: 3.8 from 29 votes
Routes in Spearhead
|Age Axe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|All Two Obvious T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Barb, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|East Prow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Obviously Four Believers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Prowess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Spear Me the Details T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stone Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Syke's Sickle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Ten Essentials, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Three Stoners T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 8 pitches|
|FA:||Davis & Winkelman - 1993|
|Page Views:||7,243 total, 48/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 27, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAll Two Obvious is a great line up the center of Spearhead - the pitches link various features up the wall and for that reason the line is somewhat discontinuous both in terms of direction as well as difficulty. I didn't think it was as good as it's neighbor, Spear Me the Ducktails, but that said, there are some fantastic pitches.
Choose whatever approach pitch you like to get to Middle Earth Ledge and begin just below the left side of the Eye of Mordor.
1: Climb up into a left-facing flake system, undercling left, continue up flakes up and right to a belay ledge just below a 5' long splitter finger crack. 5.9
2: Climb up and right (a good 20' or so right) to another ledge system just below a left-leaning, slightly offset RP seam. This seam is invisible from the previous belay. Note that the guidebook indicates the presence of a pin which is nonexistant. Protect the starting moves with good RP's, then run it out a few feet to more good placements (5.10d with ledgefall potential). Head right on easy ground to a nice ledge and belay at two pins.
3: Climb up and undercling right along the obvious flake, then face climb above to reach another flake system which is followed to a belay stance at right. 5.9 s
4: Continue up the right-facing shallow flake system that becomes a flaring slot of sorts with tricky/limited pro for the first 50' or so. Trend left past two pins in flakes to the obvious circular feature. Belay here (hand size cams) or link with the next pitch (judicious use of runners and pro).
5: Probably the best pitch on the route. Pull out of the circular belay on bomber 5.10- fingerlocks and faceholds. Follow the finger crack up until you can step into a left-facing corner. Follow this to a two-bolt belay out right below the crux pitch.
6: 3 bolts protect the balancey, Not So Obvious moves off the belay; some tricky micro-routefinding leads to a tough pull up into a shallow left-facing corner. Head up this corner and step right into a second corner system - this one protected by another three bolts to another bolted belay. This pitch is a safe lead but would be difficult to French Free. 5.11d, maybe 12a.
7: 4 bolts protect some nice 5.11- face/slab climbing that leads to broken corners/cracks and the summit ledge. This is a short pitch and ends at a bolted belay anchor.
Rap the route with two ropes (staying mostly left of the route) or walk off.