Type: Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA: Fricke & Logan, 1970. FFA: McClure & Gulley, 1975
Page Views: 46,608 total · 195/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Barb is a fantastic route, a great first 5.10 alpine climb. Nearly every pitch is a gem. It has a boulder problem crux with lots of sustained 5.9.

P1. Start up a left facing flake, 5.6.

P2. Scramble up to Middle Earth Ledge, and move left, 4th class.

P3. Wander up the face and find a left leaning slot. Follow this to its end, step left across the face, climb a right facing corner, and belay as high as possible, 5.6.

P4. Finish the corner, then follow an amazing left-leaning crack at 5.9.

P5. Starting on the left, climb through an A-shaped roof, and follow a beautiful crack. Find a belay in a shallow, left-facing corner, don't go too high. This is a shorter pitch.

P6. Continue in the crack system until you see a (seemingly solid) pin to the right in a right-leaning crack. Climb past this (5.10 crux) and up to a belay.

P7-9. Work your way over to the North Ridge, and follow that route to the top.

I called the route 10- because of the short crux, but it is graded as high as 10c in other guidebooks. The crux is only 2 or 3 moves, but the feet are kind of insecure. I've heard P4 compared favorably to P2 of Over the Hill in Eldo, and I have to agree. It is easy to climb too high on P5 in search of a better belay stance. This is my favorite route (out of a pitifully small sample size) that I have done in RMNP, and I would definitely repeat it. It is lots of fun. If possible, don't forget to scramble to the summit. It's wild!

Protection

SR. RPs and TCUs help. Maybe bring some extra fingers to thin hands.

Photos