Avg: 3.7 from 186 votes
Routes in Spearhead
|Age Axe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|All Two Obvious T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Barb, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|East Prow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Obviously Four Believers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Prowess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Spear Me the Details T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stone Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Syke's Sickle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Ten Essentials, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Three Stoners T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FA: Fricke & Logan, 1970. FFA: McClure & Gulley, 1975|
|Page Views:||36,040 total, 175/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe Barb is a fantastic route, a great first 5.10 alpine climb. Nearly every pitch is a gem. It has a boulder problem crux with lots of sustained 5.9.
P1. Start up a left facing flake, 5.6.
P2. Scramble up to Middle Earth Ledge, and move left, 4th class.
P3. Wander up the face and find a left leaning slot. Follow this to its end, step left across the face, climb a right facing corner, and belay as high as possible, 5.6.
P4. Finish the corner, then follow an amazing left-leaning crack at 5.9.
P5. Starting on the left, climb through an A-shaped roof, and follow a beautiful crack. Find a belay in a shallow, left-facing corner, don't go too high. This is a shorter pitch.
P6. Continue in the crack system until you see a (seemingly solid) pin to the right in a right-leaning crack. Climb past this (5.10 crux) and up to a belay.
P7-9. Work your way over to the North Ridge, and follow that route to the top.
I called the route 10- because of the short crux, but it is graded as high as 10c in other guidebooks. The crux is only 2 or 3 moves, but the feet are kind of insecure. I've heard P4 compared favorably to P2 of Over the Hill in Eldo, and I have to agree. It is easy to climb too high on P5 in search of a better belay stance. This is my favorite route (out of a pitifully small sample size) that I have done in RMNP, and I would definitely repeat it. It is lots of fun. If possible, don't forget to scramble to the summit. It's wild!