Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: Jim Erickson, Pat Ament, and Bill Putnam, 1972
Page Views: 25,888 total · 118/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

An all-time classic with exquisite, technical stemming followed by a perfect finger crack. This climbs rewards good balance and precise footwork. Hike to the Rincon Wall, and head west (uphill) to the "left-facing dihedral area". The climb is identified as a long, acute, thin dihedral with a tree near the top and another just above the top. There is a semi-detached flake about twenty feet up which marks the start of the difficulties.

P1. Climb the dihedral, with a full-body 5.10 stemming down low, and another awkward crux exiting the dihedral. There is an optional belay at the first tree, but the only reason to stop there is if the leader really wants the belayer nearby for moral support at the top crux. There are pins at both cruxes, and other micro-gear is available.

P2. From the shelf above the dihedral, move left (moving the belay, if desired), and find a thin 5.9 crack up a beautiful steep slab. This is as good as any 5.9 pitch I've done.

Belay on top, and descend down ledges and gullies to the west.

Protection

Standard rack with lots of thin stuff (up to a #3 Friend).

Photos