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Routes in Rincon - L of Center Route

Aerial Bondage T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Aerial Book T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aero-Book T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Aerohead T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aeronaut T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Aerospace T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arete Bandit T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Athletic Supporter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bachar Yer Aryan T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brevitata T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Of The Century T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cuban Bluegrass T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Emerald City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evictor, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Faulty Logic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fraid Line T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Kaisho T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Kangaroo Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Leisure Time Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Must'a Been High T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
N.I.C T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Over and Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scenic Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Surf's Up T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trident T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ventura Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wendego T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Windy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: Jim Erickson, Pat Ament, and Bill Putnam, 1972
Page Views: 22,573 total, 116/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


319 Opinions

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

An all-time classic with some unusual climbing. Hike to the Rincon Wall, and head west (uphill) to the "left-facing dihedral area". The climb is identified as a long, acute, thin dihedral with a tree near the top and another just above the top. There is a semi-detached flake about twenty feet up which marks the start of the difficulties.

P1 - Climb the dihedral, with a full-body 5.10 stemming down low, and another awkward crux exiting the dihedral (optional belay at the first tree, but why?)

P2 - From the shelf above the dihedral, move left (moving the belay, if desired), and find a thin 5.9 crack up a beautiful steep slab. As good as any 5.9 pitch I've ever done.

Belay on top and descend down ledges and gullies to the west.

Protection

Standard rack with lots of thin stuff (up to a #3 Friend).

Photos

claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
With a single 70m, you can link all of it to the top as one pitch, but it uses the whole rope. So make sure yours isn't short unless you want to simul a little. Apr 28, 2014
Rennie Putnam
Davis, CA
Rennie Putnam   Davis, CA
First ascent was by Jim Erickson, Pat Ament, and Bill Putnam in 1972. The climb is so named because Erickson was apparently feeling a bit past his prime at the time. Dec 31, 2013
Jeff McLeod
  5.10b
Jeff McLeod  
  5.10b
Raise your hand if you cranked off the single digit pocket after the tree on the first pitch! What an awesome route; the 5.9 pitch can be lead using only stoppers. Oct 31, 2012
James Hulett
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10b PG13
James Hulett   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10b PG13
Do this climb. Jun 17, 2011
jeremy long
BOULDER CO
 
jeremy long   BOULDER CO
 
Wow, the Vernons got all the good posts. May 20, 2011
Loved the first pitch. Fine, sustained stemming. I thought the second pitch (the 5.9 crack off the ledge that folks seem to love so much) was only fair. Uninteresting face climbing around a finger crack, and some hollow rock up high. OK as a second pitch, but I wouldn't bother with it again. Now the stemming corner on the other hand was superb. I'd just rap off from there and do one of the other brilliant pitches at Rincon instead. Sep 8, 2010
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
Stellar route, hardest stemming I've done to date! I led P2 only, but I don't think we placed anything over a #0.75 Camalot anywhere on the route. P2 eats thin nuts and cams, I placed a #1, #0 and #00 Metolius and a few small Aliens on the way up. Oct 19, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Both pitches are stellar. If you are solid at the grade, get on it! Not good for someone breaking into the grade though, as the moves before the first pin in the upper dihedral would have a fairly nasty fall.... Oct 17, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
After doing this I think 1/2 dozen times over the years, I had the best time on it yet on Sunday...doing it as a single 65-meter pitch! I ran out the bottom of the 3rd pitch a little way, until I was in the finger crack and then used a 2' sling on the first piece or two and had surprisingly little rope drag after I flicked my rope a few times to make it run down and right to the top pin of the second pitch. It was not difficult to pull rope for clips even on the last piece of the pitch. Disclaimer: I was climbing on a new-ish 9mm rope. Using longer slings on the top two pins of that would have probably made drag a complete non-issue even on a fatter or older rope.

The PG-13 rating I am assigning to this is to take note of the awkward moves at the start of the "second pitch" that could produce a somewhat bad fall into and through that little tree. Mar 12, 2007
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Classic line. Did this in 45 degree temps, and the open-book nature of the dihedral made it quite balmy in the sun. While Aerospace and Aerial Book were experiencing sprindrift and ice fall, I soaked up the rays on this beauty. Oct 23, 2006
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
Classic line, but I can't quite agree with all the rapture -- the stems are tricky and it's hard work getting past the row of pins. If you're only talking about the top pitch, sure that's lots of fun. May 14, 2006
Trevor Nydam  
 
Fantastic. Excellent stemming. The second pitch is a joy with great pro. The route is a must do. Sep 13, 2005
Lon Black  
 
Funny Rich...yeah that one finger pocket was sweet. It's hard to believe how positive it was. I've never done stemming like that. What a route! At the crux, my calves were burning more than my arms. I wonder what it was like to finish the first ascent of that line? Jim must have been smiling ear to ear. Classic.

Apr 27, 2004
SirVato
Boulder
  5.10b
SirVato   Boulder
  5.10b
I know, I know but, I gotta say it...THIS ROUTE IS THA [BEST!] Awesome stemming the entire way. IMHO the moves off the ledge, to get to the first pin are rather FREAKY, solid but freaky, At least the tree would slow your fall!!! Seriously, if your short you gotta do quite few movs to comfortably clip that first pin (thank god they're solid) Did anyone else find use for that little one finger pocket?? I sure did!! The lower portion of the route was pretty hard as well, The stemming after the flake was pretty tricky_ As for the second pitch... I vote three stars at 8+, The crack is oh so fun but not that hard. Led it one day after Emerald City and thought it was quite a bit easier. Any how Over the Hilll is one of the funnest routes I've led!!!! Enjoy. climb on!!! rs Mar 22, 2004
Jim Amidon  
 
Just another Eldo classic with all the spice that goes with it !!!! Oct 12, 2003
Got suckered out of a stem by left edges at first pin... don't do it! Stem and smear, both hands and feet all the way to the top - great climb! Oct 4, 2003
Cool photo, Myke. Jul 27, 2003
I was [surprised] to find actual holds on the upper crux dihedral. [The] second pitch is easy 5.9 with rests after each move, although it looks really hard from the belay-it is very unsustained. Jul 17, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Followed the lower pitches of this yesterday and got spanked. In that upper dihedral there's 3 pins hammered in roughly 5' apart. Its a stretch clipping the first, but the smallest purple alien will fit just below the first one if you can't reach the pin and want security before launching up. Higher up, near it s finish, look for the thin quarter size crimper out on the right face for the final crux pull. Took the sharp end on that upper face, and it put a smile on my face. An awesome pitch, with a perfect finger crack, that was sustained, but not as difficult as I thought it might be. As others have posted, small nuts are the ticket for the 1st 3/4 of the pitch. Then slip a small cam (yellow alien) in the upper flake and your home. As good as it gets for the grade. Jul 5, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Well protected with good moves. Stem and palm your way up the first pitch, finger jam on the second. A light rack will suffice(e.g. small cams and stoppers). Very enjoyable lead. Jun 1, 2003
Loved Every minute of this climb's first 50-60 feet, though it was delightfully entertaining thoughout especially when you utilize the addition of Bachar [Yer] Arian as a TR from the top. Back to that first dihedral, Kick ass stemming lots of fun fancy stem work and tall boy opportunity. I would do it once a week if I didn't live in the Gunks. Had the honor of chatting briefly with Richard [Rossiter] about his thoughts on the climb later that day. Rick Clark Aug 30, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Yeah, but I think the photo needs to be rotated 90 degrees! Jun 14, 2002
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
No lens flare filter, I swear! It was about 12:30, that's where the sun was. :-) Jun 14, 2002
Nice PSed pic, Myke. ;-) Jun 14, 2002
The first pitch is awesome. Enough said.

Don't miss the upper pitch. It is about as good as 5.9 can get. Well protected and fairly sustained.

The walk off to the climbers left goes along way, but keep going. Apr 23, 2002
I don't know what it is worth, but I have to reiterate the quality of this route as well. The first pitch (I guess technically two run together) is my favorite in all of Eldo so far. Desperate, thin gear, balancy, and so on. And I apologize to anyone who had to witness my cuss-fest getting to the first pin...and my thanks to whomever replaced the pins, although, as a general rule I try not to fall on pins in Eldo, it is nice to know you can. Jul 17, 2001
Even though the route's high quality should be apparent by all the other comments, I have to spray a little more on it. I've only done a few routes where each pitch has such continuous, excellent climbing with fantastic position and exposure (especially on P2).

The crux pitch gradually increases in difficulty until the last move before a "thank you God" jug. Like Pat said, quite fun stemming--bring shoes that can smear and hold a small edge. The second pitch has several 5.9 cruxes that are all very entertaining.

This route should be on everyone's to do list if you haven't already. Ok, I've rambled long enough now. Jun 4, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
One of the most fun stemming problems Ive done. Maybe only second to Practice Climb 101, or the Naked Edge. Jan 1, 2001
I have to agree that the 2nd pitch is as good as it comes....I led it yesterday as a 2nd pitch to Over and out...I still wanna climb the 1st pitch of Over the hill but haven gotten the nerve to, yet...soon, very soon. Jan 1, 2001