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Routes in Rincon - L of Center Route

Aerial Bondage T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Aerial Book T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aero-Book T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Aerohead T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aeronaut T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Aerospace T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arete Bandit T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Athletic Supporter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bachar Yer Aryan T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brevitata T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Of The Century T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cuban Bluegrass T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Emerald City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evictor, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Faulty Logic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fraid Line T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Kaisho T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Kangaroo Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Leisure Time Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Must'a Been High T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
N.I.C T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Over and Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scenic Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Surf's Up T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trident T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ventura Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wendego T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Windy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,449 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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21 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is on the left side of the upper tier of Rincon Wall, and is a great finish after Rincon, but it is slightly harder.

The route is reached by walking to the top or completing one of the lower routes. It's only 1 pitch, but it is a great pitch. Be careful to move right below the flake and then back left under the roof, or prepare for a serious "Bat's Ass Kicking." Done direct the route felt like 5.12, and I hung on it several times before my partner pointed out my error (going direct).

Protection

The route can be protected on a standard rack. The second crux is a little ways from good gear, but is only 5.10a/b. Maybe the route does not deserve the PG rating, but I err on the side of caution and at least mention the possibility of a little excitement.

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Great finish to any of the lower pitches. Nice face move crux with good gear. Aug 18, 2004
StanL
Louisville, CO
  5.11a
StanL   Louisville, CO
  5.11a
Since there's only one other comment on this excellent route, I'll add my two cents. A steep jug haul leads to a pumpy undercling sequence around and over a bulge to thank God jugs. The undercling feels insecure--where the hell do you put your feet?! Crazy to think that Derek H. free-soloed it! Pulling left around the roof is pretty exciting. No need for the R rating; good gear where you need it. Nice setting, too. Feb 24, 2008
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
Hmm. My partner told me to go right and then back left also, but I wasn't feelin' it. After coming off a few times, I git an undercling, smedged my up as high as I could got the right hand over the roof and just hucked for it!! Pretty exciting li'l all point dyno to get the Jugs! Jun 17, 2008

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