Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Dale Goddard
Page Views: 26,708 total · 95/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Jan 7, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The Evictor is THE classic 5.12 in Eldo. Heady, technical, and deceptively physical, this route has it all. This one has a reputation for being dangerous, although it dumbs down after toprope inspection (the preferred method by most) and the gear is quite good in most places. A fall from the finishing sequence is big but safe.

Start in the layback dihedral of Center Route to the hanging tooth feature. Place good gear, and punch left through the first runout (5.10 R). You are flirting with a groundfall at this point, but the climbing is relatively tame, and a good belay could keep you off the deck. Reach a good rest at the overlap, and place gear.

From the rest, punch up into the the meat of the route. Technical moves with good gear leads a semi-strenuous stance with a couple of underclings and your last piece of gear. From here, enter the route’s crux. Good beta and body tension are the name of the game. Once in the final finger lock, take a deep breath, and navigate the final moves to the top with your final piece of gear well below your feet. Grab the finishing jug, easily pull up to the anchor. Hot damn.

Protection Suggest change

Aliens to #2 Friend and several wire stoppers.

Wasp Alert Suggest change

There have been in the crack where Evictor pulls away from Center Route.