Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Dale Goddard
Page Views: 21,910 total · 98/month
Shared By: slevin on Jan 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


The Evictor offers one of the best difficult all-gear leads in the area. Many people jump on it on toprope from the Center Route anchors (please toprope through QDs and not directly off the anchor). It was originally led with the gear in place, but it has seen many ascents with all gear placed on the lead burn, usually after toprope prep. Watch Cameron Tague go ground up and take repeated whippers off it in the Scary Faces video- you will see absolutely no fear in his eyes.

Begin at the Center Route, but head left at an obvious downward-pointed flake. Now climb unprotected rock to the overlap, place gear and rest (last OK stance). Now pull on fingertip jams, and barge into the sustained climbing above. The crux is protected, if you can hang around to place the gear, but there is a bit of excitement both below and after the hardest moves.


Aliens to #2 Friend, several wire stoppers.

Wasp Alert

There have been in the crack where Evictor pulls away from Center Route.


I believe that Jim Surette did it way back, without all the hype. Jul 22, 2003
Adam. Yes, that's the guy. Not many people know of his ascent because he didn't make a big deal of it. Sep 29, 2003
As I lack the guts to uprate a route under my real name, I'm posting under the honorable title of AC. I have to call sandbagging for who ever said this is 12c on lead, placing gear. Maybe 12c on toprope. This thing is 12d placing gear and hard at the grade. If you have led it in good style, please feel free to correct me.

And now for the sameless spraying for my buddy Ted Lanzano (as he won't do it himself). He crushed this on lead yesterday. The last stopper he was too pumped to place properly so he just clipped it and sprinted for the top. Getting wobbley at the top and looking at a 30+ foot whipper, he sucked it up and snagged the finishing jug. Absolutely inspiring performance. You Lanzano boys are the shit! Jun 9, 2005
FWIW, this route has seen at least a dozen redpoints over the past year or two, many by non-5.13 climbers. Not sure if that adds anything to the grade debate or not, but it does update some of the information in the description Jun 14, 2005
Kristo torgersen
  5.12c/d PG13
Kristo torgersen  
  5.12c/d PG13
All trad pro, continuously sustained climbing, solid 5.12+. This route has deservedly become an Eldo benchmark over the years and opened the door for many climbers to the more difficult 5.13 lines to its left (Freeline, Frayed line, Surfs Up). I'd call it a new classic and the best 5.12 trad pitch in the state; would anyone nominate a better one? Mar 5, 2007
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Evictor is a great one, no doubt. As far as the best, 5.12, 1 pitch, crack climb in the State goes, it's "Transgression 12b" in the Flatirons. Just do 85% of "Death and Transfiguration" and keep cranking it out to the right, very obvious and pumpy. Transgression is better than the Evictor. IMNSHO........

edit for spelling Mar 5, 2007
Anyone know if the Evictor has ever been onsighted/flashed? A true onsight would be really impressive. Feb 8, 2008
Cassidy Hill
  5.12d R
Cassidy Hill  
  5.12d R
12d placing gear, especially if your fingers don't fit in the finger-locks at the crux. Apr 2, 2008
reboot   .
The crux for me is before the finger/tip jams. The rests on this route are decent enough that I'd call this 5.12 leading in project style (i.e. with all the move/gear beta). Onsight/flash would be much more difficult.

Not sure where the R rating comes from (pre cam days?) The route accepts mix of good active and passive gear. Apr 13, 2008
Fort Collins
  5.12d R
Dusty   Fort Collins
  5.12d R
I believe Alex Honnold got the first true onsight of this route last weekend. Same goes for the three routes to the left.

Edit: I think this route gets the R rating for the 5.10 run-out at the bottom. If you have the energy to stop and place, the rest of the climb can be sewn up. Jan 19, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
Alex did indeed onsight this climb last Friday. Pretty inspiring to see.... Jan 20, 2009
Ben Walburn
  5.12d PG13
Ben Walburn  
  5.12d PG13
I agree with the 12+ rating. The gear is certainly no more than PG. It's a little run out on the lower section but you won't deck, and the climbing is easy. Mar 20, 2011
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.12+ PG13
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.12+ PG13
Video by my friend Bill Karam from a few years ago.

Evictor from Patrick Vernon on Vimeo. Jan 12, 2013
Casey McTaggart
boulder, co
Casey McTaggart   boulder, co

I was at the Evictor on Sunday, and I discovered that I'm missing 3 cams: an orange Metolius, a 0.3 C4 and a 0.4 C4. They're all pretty worked and either have Wild Country Xenon biners or new Camp biners on them (guessing the orange has a WC biner and the BD cams have the Camp biners, but I'm not 100%).

There were two other guys up there at the base with us (I think one is named Aaron?), their stuff was spread out on the rock, I'm sure my cams just got mixed up in the pile, and my bad for not checking.
So if one of you reads this and is one of the guys that was up there, or if someone knows them, would you mind sending me a message or calling?

casey 415-846-1439 Apr 26, 2013
boulder, CO
Gaylord.Primrose   boulder, CO
I did this route 2nd go, very thin technical crux for me! Jul 29, 2013
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12+ R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12+ R
This climb rules!!!!! Bomber gear, but you got to go for it. Feb 1, 2016
Boulder, Colorado
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
There's more moderate .12 beta that most folks don't see...dare I say .12a. Jan 31, 2017
Boulder, Colorado
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
Maybe I'm suturing the pot a bit when a bit with "a" ;)
Honestly, the last move is probably c or d alone.

However, I found that this beta made the crux sequence significantly easier, for me. Thanks to Adam Brink!

Basically from the right hand undercling before the bouldery crux go right"ish" with fancy rock over and perching tactics to position just using smears and the right of the parallel seams. Jan 31, 2017
Corey Flynn   USA
Definitely not 12a as Dr. Varment is implying, maybe 12a up to the crux, but the boulder up top isn’t too bad once you have it figured out, and the gear is reasonable. FYI, going up right and “perching” as per Cedar’s video did not work for me back when I did it. Aug 14, 2018
Andres Camacho
Denver, CO
Andres Camacho   Denver, CO
I ran into ~20 wasps today in the crack as Evictor pulls away from Center Route. Be careful. May 6, 2019 · Temporary Report