Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eitehr: Mike Endicott, Greg Wright, George Bracksieck, 1982 or Richard & Joyce Rossiter, 1986
Page Views: 1,510 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route goes up on the lower half of the upper tier of Rincon Wall. [The line] is a perhaps 10M left of P4 of Rincon, and is 10m right of the big "rockhouse" that is formed between Bat's Ass Dihedral and Kangaroo Tail.I have assigned the route 2*'s which it is borderline for- but it would be a solid 2* route if cleaned up a little more.Approach by climbing the first 3 pitches of Rincon to the top belay, then scamble up and onto a ledge, [crossing] a massive downed tree carcass. There is a grey/black left facing dihedral that switches to right-facing midway up. The bottom half is lichenous in spots, but the climbing is mellow (5.6?) and protects well on stoppers. The face on the right side of the dihedral is clean and has good edges. Climb upward to a 2" cam placemnet as you switch to the right-facing corner (AKA "flip-flop dihedral). This is on cleaner rock and is quite solid, with easy moves. Climb upward for perhaps 20 feet of 5.7-5.8 to a string of very small nut placements. If climbing thin 5.10 above a string of RP's bug you, you should not be here. Execute a thin crux, reminiscent of "Over The Hill" and finish in larger holds and a 2-3" crack above. Step left to the tree and anchor above Cuban Bluegrass and Kangaroo Tail. This anchor needs backup, as it is 3 bleached webbings and a rusty quicklink. To [descend], back up the anchor and rap to the top of P3 of Rincon, going W or E from there to scramble off, or rap the route. Better yet, walk up and West to the Base of Bevitata and do that route.

Protection

Cams from 1-3", a set of stoppers and at least one set of small nuts/RP's. The crux was done a meter above a string of 4 "reasonable" nuts from a BD #2 stopper, two very small BD copper/steel nuts and a "good" #00 HB anchor.

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