Type: Trad, TR, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Ament, Pfahler 1965. FFA: Nuss, Gilbert 1975
Page Views: 7,145 total · 34/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


84 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

On Rincon wall, this system is just to the right of Over The Hill and in a few ways is like it's harder twin. Like Over the Hill, this route shoots up a nice dihedral before splitting off right to a little splitter crack. There are some differences though - the crux isn't a few moves between good fixed pins.

On Rincon wall there are several dihedrals on the left hand side. Aerial Book is the most obvious of these. Over The Hill is just to the left, and on the right the bolted arete, Aerospace is obvious. It is the large dihedral prominent on the left hand side of the attached photo.

Climb a short pitch, stemming and smearing up the dihedral (10d). The holds and gear on this pitch are both thin, but the climbing is more insecure than it is actually hard. The crux is probably about halfway up, at a strange sidepull on the right side of the corner. After about 60 feet, a fixed pin belay is convenient. The belay is visible from the ground.

From the belay, move up and right past a few huecos and onto an obvious, diagonal crack and seam (5.7?) past a tiny tree on the face (visible in photo), to reach a vertical splitter just up and right of the tree. The vertical splitter is supposedly the 11a crux pitch, but it is well-protected and not sustained. I believe crux pro was a pink tricam, but a small TCU or a nut would work, too. After the crux, the route climbs up and left to a fixed rap on a large pine tree.

This route can be TR'd from the large pine with a 70m rope if a directional was placed in the top of the crux fingercrack. A 60m will leave you with perhaps 15' of 5.4 climbing to get on belay. This tree can also be reached by scrambling to the right of the top of the second pitch of Over The Hill, Emerald City, Over and Out, etc....

Protection

Mostly smaller gear, including 2 sets of mixed brass nuts. Fiddle a few of those in from the best stances to facilitate the ablity to continue through the insecure areas without stopping. Take a few TCUs to 1.5" or tricams for the second half.

With effort and experience, the pitch can be safely protected. I have noted this route as PG-13 as some sections of the first pitch dihedral go some distance between some very small pieces which seem less that absolutely certain and may take a bit of fiddling in to get.

Photos