Avg: 3.6 from 91 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Ament, Pfahler 1965. FFA: Nuss, Gilbert 1975|
|Page Views:||7,885 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Feb 14, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
On Rincon wall there are several dihedrals on the left hand side. Aerial Book is the most obvious of these. Over The Hill is just to the left, and on the right the bolted arete, Aerospace is obvious. It is the large dihedral prominent on the left hand side of the attached photo.
Climb a short pitch, stemming and smearing up the dihedral (10d). The holds and gear on this pitch are both thin, but the climbing is more insecure than it is actually hard. The crux is probably about halfway up, at a strange sidepull on the right side of the corner. After about 60 feet, a fixed pin belay is convenient. The belay is visible from the ground.
From the belay, move up and right past a few huecos and onto an obvious, diagonal crack and seam (5.7?) past a tiny tree on the face (visible in photo), to reach a vertical splitter just up and right of the tree. The vertical splitter is supposedly the 11a crux pitch, but it is well-protected and not sustained. I believe crux pro was a pink tricam, but a small TCU or a nut would work, too. After the crux, the route climbs up and left to a fixed rap on a large pine tree.
This route can be TR'd from the large pine with a 70m rope if a directional was placed in the top of the crux fingercrack. A 60m will leave you with perhaps 15' of 5.4 climbing to get on belay. This tree can also be reached by scrambling to the right of the top of the second pitch of Over The Hill, Emerald City, Over and Out, etc....
With effort and experience, the pitch can be safely protected. I have noted this route as PG-13 as some sections of the first pitch dihedral go some distance between some very small pieces which seem less that absolutely certain and may take a bit of fiddling in to get.