Avg: 2 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||R. & J. Rossiter, 1986|
|Page Views:||426 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jun 21, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
This climb is a definite 2* and protects well enough and has good rests to be a great on-sight attempt for people just at this grade, provided their gear-placing skills are descent. The crux is burley, but it's all there and is not sustained/mental. It is also under-climbed, so don't expect a line for it.
To get to Brevitata, climb Rincon, then climb Bat's Ass Dihedral, Kangaroo Tail, Cuban Bluegrass, or Ventura Highway to reach the next ledge up. As an option, you may also walk West from the top of P3 of Rincon, then scramble up to approach the base of this right-facing, ever-steepening dihedral, the dark pin is difficult to see from below. The rock on the climb itself is as good as it gets and STICKY. The climb overall starts as a low-angle, right-facing open book corner. In a parabolic curve, the angle of the corner goes from perhaps a 75 degree slab to a 15 or 20 degree overhang. The crux being at the steepest part of the overhang, where a fixed pin gives mental assistance and confidence to the leader.Scramble to the bottom of the corner and set a good belay off of some hand-sized cams, then climb up on stoppers and small cams if desired, to where the corner is vertical- set some tiny nuts and climb up to an under-cling and clip the pin. Back up the pin later by putting the 1.5" TCU in the under-cling in the corner just before you leave it for the crux. Do the gut-buster crux off of some small feet (smears) and a weird finger-lock to reach up and left to a great under-cling on the steep face to the left... now do the gut-buster crux on stems or smears for feet to hit the thank-god hold and easier ground and gear. Height should not be a factor, as all of the wall offers dimples/pimples for feet... none of them good enough to compromise ideal body position for. You can belay from above on a large, solid tree.
To descend, scramble down just to the West and intersect the trail as from 'Over The Hill' after a little loose rock. Alternatively, one could add an anchor of webbing rings up here and save a little excitement. Remember that there are hordes of climbers below, and try not to knock off rocks.