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The Evictor

5.12+ PG13, Trad,  Avg: 4 from 56 votes
FA: Dale Goddard
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - L of Center…
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Evictor offers one of the best difficult all-gear leads in the area. Many people jump on it on toprope from the Center Route anchors (please toprope through QDs and not directly off the anchor). It was originally led with the gear in place, but it has seen many ascents with all gear placed on the lead burn, usually after toprope prep. Watch Cameron Tague go ground up and take repeated whippers off it in the Scary Faces video- you will see absolutely no fear in his eyes.

Begin at the Center Route, but head left at an obvious downward-pointed flake. Now climb unprotected rock to the overlap, place gear and rest (last OK stance). Now pull on fingertip jams, and barge into the sustained climbing above. The crux is protected, if you can hang around to place the gear, but there is a bit of excitement both below and after the hardest moves.

Protection

Aliens to #2 Friend, several wire stoppers.

Wasp Alert

There have been in the crack where Evictor pulls away from Center Route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Josh going BIG.
[Hide Photo] Josh going BIG.
Rob Linnenberger cruxes on his very stylish send of The Evictor.
[Hide Photo] Rob Linnenberger cruxes on his very stylish send of The Evictor.
Ben walking through the crux moves and so close to the send...
[Hide Photo] Ben walking through the crux moves and so close to the send...
Rob Linnenberger using some wicked body English to snag the send.
[Hide Photo] Rob Linnenberger using some wicked body English to snag the send.
Taking the whip on Evictor!
[Hide Photo] Taking the whip on Evictor!
Chris Tirrell.
[Hide Photo] Chris Tirrell.
Cruxville.
[Hide Photo] Cruxville.
Chris Tirrell.
[Hide Photo] Chris Tirrell.
Chip Chace attempting Evictor on TR.
[Hide Photo] Chip Chace attempting Evictor on TR.
Lynn below the "power moves" to the anchor, one very hot day.
[Hide Photo] Lynn below the "power moves" to the anchor, one very hot day.
The most spectacular position on this climb? George and his partner Chris both led Evictor that day.
[Hide Photo] The most spectacular position on this climb? George and his partner Chris both led Evictor that day.
Scott Bennett powering through The Evictor.  www.ryandaythompson.com | www.ryandaylandscapes.com
[Hide Photo] Scott Bennett powering through The Evictor. www.ryandaythompson.com | www.ryandaylandscapes.com

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I believe that Jim Surette did it way back, without all the hype. Jul 22, 2003
[Hide Comment] Adam. Yes, that's the guy. Not many people know of his ascent because he didn't make a big deal of it. Sep 29, 2003
ac
[Hide Comment] As I lack the guts to uprate a route under my real name, I'm posting under the honorable title of AC. I have to call sandbagging for who ever said this is 12c on lead, placing gear. Maybe 12c on toprope. This thing is 12d placing gear and hard at the grade. If you have led it in good style, please feel free to correct me.

And now for the sameless spraying for my buddy Ted Lanzano (as he won't do it himself). He crushed this on lead yesterday. The last stopper he was too pumped to place properly so he just clipped it and sprinted for the top. Getting wobbley at the top and looking at a 30+ foot whipper, he sucked it up and snagged the finishing jug. Absolutely inspiring performance. You Lanzano boys are the shit! Jun 9, 2005
ac
[Hide Comment] FWIW, this route has seen at least a dozen redpoints over the past year or two, many by non-5.13 climbers. Not sure if that adds anything to the grade debate or not, but it does update some of the information in the description Jun 14, 2005
Kristo torgersen
  5.12c/d PG13
[Hide Comment] All trad pro, continuously sustained climbing, solid 5.12+. This route has deservedly become an Eldo benchmark over the years and opened the door for many climbers to the more difficult 5.13 lines to its left (Freeline, Frayed line, Surfs Up). I'd call it a new classic and the best 5.12 trad pitch in the state; would anyone nominate a better one? Mar 5, 2007
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Evictor is a great one, no doubt. As far as the best, 5.12, 1 pitch, crack climb in the State goes, it's "Transgression 12b" in the Flatirons. Just do 85% of "Death and Transfiguration" and keep cranking it out to the right, very obvious and pumpy. Transgression is better than the Evictor. IMNSHO........

edit for spelling Mar 5, 2007
[Hide Comment] Anyone know if the Evictor has ever been onsighted/flashed? A true onsight would be really impressive. Feb 8, 2008
Cassidy Hill
  5.12d R
[Hide Comment] 12d placing gear, especially if your fingers don't fit in the finger-locks at the crux. Apr 2, 2008
reboot
.
 
[Hide Comment] The crux for me is before the finger/tip jams. The rests on this route are decent enough that I'd call this 5.12 leading in project style (i.e. with all the move/gear beta). Onsight/flash would be much more difficult.

Not sure where the R rating comes from (pre cam days?) The route accepts mix of good active and passive gear. Apr 13, 2008
Dusty
Fort Collins
  5.12d R
[Hide Comment] I believe Alex Honnold got the first true onsight of this route last weekend. Same goes for the three routes to the left.

Edit: I think this route gets the R rating for the 5.10 run-out at the bottom. If you have the energy to stop and place, the rest of the climb can be sewn up. Jan 19, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
[Hide Comment] Alex did indeed onsight this climb last Friday. Pretty inspiring to see.... Jan 20, 2009
Ben Walburn
  5.12d PG13
[Hide Comment] I agree with the 12+ rating. The gear is certainly no more than PG. It's a little run out on the lower section but you won't deck, and the climbing is easy. Mar 20, 2011
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.12+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Video by my friend Bill Karam from a few years ago.

Evictor from Patrick Vernon on Vimeo. Jan 12, 2013
Casey McTaggart
boulder, co
[Hide Comment] Hey-

I was at the Evictor on Sunday, and I discovered that I'm missing 3 cams: an orange Metolius, a 0.3 C4 and a 0.4 C4. They're all pretty worked and either have Wild Country Xenon biners or new Camp biners on them (guessing the orange has a WC biner and the BD cams have the Camp biners, but I'm not 100%).

There were two other guys up there at the base with us (I think one is named Aaron?), their stuff was spread out on the rock, I'm sure my cams just got mixed up in the pile, and my bad for not checking.
So if one of you reads this and is one of the guys that was up there, or if someone knows them, would you mind sending me a message or calling?

Thanks!!
casey 415-846-1439 Apr 26, 2013
Gaylord.Primrose
boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I did this route 2nd go, very thin technical crux for me! Jul 29, 2013
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12+ R
[Hide Comment] This climb rules!!!!! Bomber gear, but you got to go for it. Feb 1, 2016
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] There's more moderate .12 beta that most folks don't see...dare I say .12a. Jan 31, 2017
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Maybe I'm suturing the pot a bit when a bit with "a" ;)
Honestly, the last move is probably c or d alone.

However, I found that this beta made the crux sequence significantly easier, for me. Thanks to Adam Brink!

Basically from the right hand undercling before the bouldery crux go right"ish" with fancy rock over and perching tactics to position just using smears and the right of the parallel seams. Jan 31, 2017
[Hide Comment] Definitely not 12a as Dr. Varment is implying, maybe 12a up to the crux, but the boulder up top isn’t too bad once you have it figured out, and the gear is reasonable. FYI, going up right and “perching” as per Cedar’s video did not work for me back when I did it. Aug 14, 2018
Andres Camacho
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] I ran into ~20 wasps today in the crack as Evictor pulls away from Center Route. Be careful. May 6, 2019