Must'a Been High
5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British R
Avg: 3.6 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Eric DeCaria |
Page Views: | 13,728 total · 64/month |
Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Apr 23, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a fairly serious headpoint route. If slash grades were provided for seriousness, I would give it an R/X. This is due to the questionable nature of the gear below the first crux and the low angle terrain in the crux's fall zone. If the protection holds, the fall will be long but most likely safe. If not, you will slam into the slabby arete below and come very close to hitting the ground. In either scenario, it's easy to imagine at least a sprained ankle but definitely no ground falls or death potential.
The first 20 feet of this route is well protected, moderately difficult (10), low angle corner climbing that leads to a large jug at the top of the slab. Beyond this height, the angle of the wall steepens and the nature of the route dramatically changes. When you have conjured your psyche, and placed your gear (small TCU, sliding nut, and a suspect piton), climb into the shuffled offsets and cast into the business of slapping and hugging your way up an unruly, 3 foot wide, vertical column to an good undercling 12 feet above your last piece. If you make it here, you are rewarded with a very solid fixed nut. At this point, the difficulty and danger eases, but the fight isn't over because blind placements, awkward gear, and pumpy, complicated 5.12 offset climbing still guards the chains.
The first 20 feet of this route is well protected, moderately difficult (10), low angle corner climbing that leads to a large jug at the top of the slab. Beyond this height, the angle of the wall steepens and the nature of the route dramatically changes. When you have conjured your psyche, and placed your gear (small TCU, sliding nut, and a suspect piton), climb into the shuffled offsets and cast into the business of slapping and hugging your way up an unruly, 3 foot wide, vertical column to an good undercling 12 feet above your last piece. If you make it here, you are rewarded with a very solid fixed nut. At this point, the difficulty and danger eases, but the fight isn't over because blind placements, awkward gear, and pumpy, complicated 5.12 offset climbing still guards the chains.
Location
This route is located about 25 feet left of Climb of the Century. Start in a corner just left of a short arete feature.
Protection
Thin gear, a slider nut, some quickdraws and a helmet.
If you desire to toprope this route, the anchors can be reached by making a spooky traverse from the anchors of Climb of the Century.
If you desire to toprope this route, the anchors can be reached by making a spooky traverse from the anchors of Climb of the Century.
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