Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|Page Views:||12,098 total · 68/month|
|Shared By:||Taylor Roy on Apr 23, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The first 20 feet of this route is well protected, moderately difficult (10), low angle corner climbing that leads to a large jug at the top of the slab. Beyond this height, the angle of the wall steepens and the nature of the route dramatically changes. When you have conjured your psyche, and placed your gear (small TCU, sliding nut, and a suspect piton), climb into the shuffled offsets and cast into the business of slapping and hugging your way up an unruly, 3 foot wide, vertical column to an good undercling 12 feet above your last piece. If you make it here, you are rewarded with a very solid fixed nut. At this point, the difficulty and danger eases, but the fight isn't over because blind placements, awkward gear, and pumpy, complicated 5.12 offset climbing still guards the chains.
If you desire to toprope this route, the anchors can be reached by making a spooky traverse from the anchors of Climb of the Century.