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Routes in Rincon - L of Center Route

Aerial Bondage T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Aerial Book T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aero-Book T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Aerohead T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aeronaut T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Aerospace T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arete Bandit T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Athletic Supporter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bachar Yer Aryan T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brevitata T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Of The Century T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cuban Bluegrass T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Emerald City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evictor, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Faulty Logic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fraid Line T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Kaisho T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Kangaroo Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Leisure Time Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Must'a Been High T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
N.I.C T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Over and Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scenic Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Surf's Up T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trident T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ventura Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wendego T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Windy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Eric DeCaria
Page Views: 9,362 total, 72/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a fairly serious headpoint route. If slash grades were provided for seriousness, I would give it an R/X. This is due to the questionable nature of the gear below the first crux and the low angle terrain in the crux's fall zone. If the protection holds, the fall will be long but most likely safe. If not, you will slam into the slabby arete below and come very close to hitting the ground. In either scenario, it's easy to imagine at least a sprained ankle but definitely no ground falls or death potential.

The first 20 feet of this route is well protected, moderately difficult (10), low angle corner climbing that leads to a large jug at the top of the slab. Beyond this height, the angle of the wall steepens and the nature of the route dramatically changes. When you have conjured your psyche, and placed your gear (small TCU, sliding nut, and a suspect piton), climb into the shuffled offsets and cast into the business of slapping and hugging your way up an unruly, 3 foot wide, vertical column to an good undercling 12 feet above your last piece. If you make it here, you are rewarded with a very solid fixed nut. At this point, the difficulty and danger eases, but the fight isn't over because blind placements, awkward gear, and pumpy, complicated 5.12 offset climbing still guards the chains.

Location

This route is located about 25 feet left of Climb of the Century. Start in a corner just left of a short arete feature.

Protection

Thin gear, a slider nut, some quickdraws and a helmet.

If you desire to toprope this route, the anchors can be reached by making a spooky traverse from the anchors of Climb of the Century.

Photos

John RB
Superior, CO
John RB   Superior, CO
vimeo.com/55567999 Jul 16, 2017
Ty Harlacker
Albuquerque, NM
Ty Harlacker   Albuquerque, NM
You have more stones than I, good sir. Jun 6, 2011
Must'a Been High!!!
Knifeblade was the only fixed protection I used on the first ascent. Replaced the anchor slings winter '07. Jun 1, 2007