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Routes in Rincon - L of Center Route

Aerial Bondage T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Aerial Book T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aero-Book T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Aerohead T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aeronaut T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Aerospace T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arete Bandit T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Athletic Supporter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bachar Yer Aryan T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brevitata T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Of The Century T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cuban Bluegrass T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Emerald City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evictor, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Faulty Logic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fraid Line T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Kaisho T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Kangaroo Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Leisure Time Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Must'a Been High T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
N.I.C T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Over and Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scenic Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Surf's Up T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trident T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ventura Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wendego T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Windy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad
FA: Sharp, Newman, Butterfield, 1980
Page Views: 10,649 total, 54/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Judging by the amount of chalk on the holds, this must be a popular route. The line is stellar. One of the best pitches of the grade, but probably not led as often as one might think...Modern gear has made an amazing impact! Before micro cams this was a super serious lead. Now its still a bit heads up, but the competent climber with Aliens or TCU's should be OK.

The start of the route is a play on angular irregularities. Two ways to start: Power straight up the pillar (reachy), or stem the left side and tiptoe out right(balancy). Small cams protect between the two fixed pieces (both dubious). Crank past that pin and now climb the cool dihedral with stems and liebacks and better pro. Lower off 78'.

Protection

0.3"-1.5" cams (2x.4" "sews it up"), nuts, 1 fixed peg + 1 fixed Roller (YIKES!). Lower off anchor.
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11
Offset Mastercams, c3s, and DMM alloy offset nuts make this route PG-13 if you aren't too short. The crux is getting to and getting established over the big jug rail. Each move after the crux feels easier than the last. A fair onsight grade is 11 if you are tall and perhaps 11+ if you are short or have only one working ankle. ;) Jan 16, 2017
John.A.Kirk  
 
2nd ascent in 1980. Fine route. Jul 15, 2016
Corey Flynn   USA
Over the years I've probaly lead/sent this thing 15 times and taken 3 times as many TR laps, and I've never been able to climb it straight up. One time on a little bit of a warmer day I even decked trying to figure out the straight up beta. The only way I can do it is to stem up on the left and do a funky lieback/crossover move into the sloping rail. Maybe some Aliens would inspire more confidence, I've always placed a few so-so grey TCUs. Maybe it could be a little height-dependent as well? I'm barely 5'9", anyway just my two cents. Feb 20, 2015
Bob Rotert
5.11
Bob Rotert  
5.11
If you have confidence in the gear or are able to get good gear in reasonably quickly, that helps with the difficulties of this route.

I can see the opinion of a rating rise or fall for the individual ascent depending on how well the leader gets the gear in and how much confidence they have in the gear placed. When led, the climb has a bit of gear, head, and pump factor that can add to the pure technical difficulty. The small cams you can get on this seem pretty good. Some people have total confidence in micro cams and are totally comfortable whipping on them. However, I always prefer not to put them to the test myself and this route has a really bad landing area.

Critical placements: A blue Alien or purple TCU in the upper slot before the jug. Blue TCU placed in the slot before the pin, from the jug, are what I use to protect the opening moves. Apr 11, 2012
Tommey-James
Boulder,Colorado
  5.11
Tommey-James   Boulder,Colorado
  5.11
Really fun climb with really small pro for the first 20/25 ft. I found the crux to be a reasonably well-protected. It is a little scary busting the crux moves near the deck on thin pro, though. Up higher, the climbing eases off, but the gear is a little spaced, not too big of a deal if you made it through the bottom, though. I would recommend taking doubled of 0 and 00 size cams (may be even triple of 0 but not necessary). I thought it was more sustained than the crux pitch of C'est la Vie just for reference. Jul 11, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
I got the RP on this yesterday, and if anyone cares the following gear sewed it up through the crux nicely.

Grey/purple Mastercam hybrid.
Medium nut in the finger slot where the pillar gets steep.
Green C3 in the slot below the jug/rail.
Green C3 just below the pin above the jug/rail.
Pin.
I found a blue/yellow Mastercam hybrid useful for the next placement.

That crack is pretty funky up high. I recommend bringing hybrids, or just placing a lot. May 26, 2011
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11b/c
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11b/c
Be careful placing a blue Alien in the slot before the crux move to the jug. We fixed one that took 15-20 minutes to extract. A black Alien or blue ballnut might work better there.

We also managed to temporarily stick a blue Alien before the pin. The trigger bar became wedged in the crack. I guess it wasn't a good day for blue Aliens for us.

Great climb with good gear and holds when you need them, but not at the same time. Oct 7, 2009
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
 
As of 3/21/09 the slider nut at the start was gone, although a grey TCU works in its spot. Mar 23, 2009
Kirill Kireyev
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Kirill Kireyev   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Somehow I managed to get suckered left around the corner at the beginning. Don't do that.

Bring a black and blue Aliens or two blacks for the crux. Blue TCU/Red BD are too big. Nov 18, 2008
d-know
electric lady land
  5.11c
d-know   electric lady land
  5.11c
I've only been to Eldo once, but this route is what I remember most.
Good lead. Jan 26, 2006
adam brink
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
adam brink   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
charles- glad to hear that the gear held so well. when i lead this route i didn't fall on the gear so i never had a good sense if it was as good as it looked. it just didn't seem as straight forward and easy to guage as the gear on center route. that is why i said is was more uncertain. either way, a definate must lead route. Feb 27, 2004
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
I don't think the moves are "much more serious on lead." I led this route for the second time last week, and whipped twice off the crux onto a bomber cam. Short, safe fall. In fact, I'd feel comfortable falling anywhere on this route. There are some tricky placements but the gear is good!

Kirk--it may feel easier because the crux, while hard, is kind of a boulder problem (and balancy rather than powerful), plus there are decent rests most of the rest of the way. Feb 27, 2004
adam brink
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
adam brink   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
kirk- in my opinion, this really isn't any harder than center route, it is just that the moves are much more serious on lead. you can sew up the crux of the center route while climb of the century has a decently uncertain fall at the beginning crux. all that aside, they are both classic! Feb 27, 2004
Somebody tell me why this seems easier than Center Routeto me? This is now officially on my lead list (TRed it clean first time, which is way more than I can say for Center Route) Feb 27, 2004
Joe Collins
  5.11b
Joe Collins  
  5.11b
The black alien backs up the old fixed slider nut at the start. Sep 29, 2003
Joe Collins
  5.11b
Joe Collins  
  5.11b
Two words: Black Alien!

eldo top-10, maybe top-5

About the same difficulty as Center Route. I can see this being thought of as harder-11 back in the pre-small cam days. Apr 21, 2003
adam brink
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
adam brink   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
you lanzanos are always good stewards at your local crags. i finally got to do this route yesterday and it was even better than i had hoped. a classic for sure. and the pin looks pretty bomber now. thanks stan. Sep 8, 2002
StanL
Louisville, CO
  5.11b
StanL   Louisville, CO
  5.11b
FYI: A while back a friend and I hammered in the pin on this climb. We were able to drive it in at least an inch. While still not bomber, it no longer belongs in the Eldorado fixed gear _hall of shame_ like, say, the tattered ball nut directly below it. Great line. Apr 18, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Like some other climbs at Rincon (including the namesake), this climb is a little soft at it's grade, feeling more like 11a to me. The climb plays best to people who stem and smear well. Ballnuts and micro-cams are both useful. Oct 29, 2001