Climb Of The Century
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 156 votes
Type: |
Trad
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
FA: | Sharp, Newman, Butterfield, 1980 |
Page Views: | 15,284 total · 54/month |
Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Judging by the amount of chalk on the holds, this must be a popular route. The line is stellar. One of the best pitches of the grade, but probably not led as often as one might think...Modern gear has made an amazing impact! Before micro cams this was a super serious lead. Now its still a bit heads up, but the competent climber with Aliens or TCU's should be OK.
The start of the route is a play on angular irregularities. Two ways to start: Power straight up the pillar (reachy), or stem the left side and tiptoe out right(balancy). Small cams protect between the two fixed pieces (both dubious). Crank past that pin and now climb the cool dihedral with stems and liebacks and better pro. Lower off 78'.
The start of the route is a play on angular irregularities. Two ways to start: Power straight up the pillar (reachy), or stem the left side and tiptoe out right(balancy). Small cams protect between the two fixed pieces (both dubious). Crank past that pin and now climb the cool dihedral with stems and liebacks and better pro. Lower off 78'.
Protection
0.3"-1.5" cams (2x.4" "sews it up"), nuts, 1 fixed peg + 1 fixed Roller (YIKES!), and a lower off anchor.
Per Kaylee Ludden: 1-2X 0.1 or 0.15, 2-3X 0.2 or black Totem; 0.3"-1.5" cams (2x 0.3-0.4" "sews it up"), nuts, 1 fixed pin, and a two bolt anchor.
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