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Routes in Rincon - L of Center Route

Aerial Bondage T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Aerial Book T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aero-Book T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Aerohead T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aeronaut T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Aerospace T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arete Bandit T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Athletic Supporter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bachar Yer Aryan T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brevitata T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Of The Century T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cuban Bluegrass T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Emerald City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evictor, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Faulty Logic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fraid Line T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Kaisho T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Kangaroo Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Leisure Time Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Must'a Been High T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
N.I.C T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Over and Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scenic Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Surf's Up T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trident T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ventura Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wendego T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Windy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Chris Archer, Keith Gotschall, 1987
Page Views: 2,021 total, 10/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Apr 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route takes the arete in between Emerald City and Over and Out, on the left side of the Rincon wall. In my opinion, it was not that great and is sort of contrived, but some people might think otherwise. The nice thing about this route is that it seems seldom climbed, so the most interesting part was finding the nice, key edges and holds without chalk already on them.

Start at the base of Emerald City dihedral and begin by climbing easy flakes right onto the arete. Pass two bolts that are placed at the crux and then climb up to a shallow dihedral, where more pro can be placed. Finish the top of the arete and climb the last short dihedral on the first pitch of Emerald City to the very rotten belay ledge shared by all the routes in the area. Finish on the last pitch of Over the Hill (great 5.9 finger crack), or the dihedral right above the belay (not so great 5.8). I would only really recommend this route if you haven't done all the other routes in the area, and are bored.

Protection

There are two bolts on this route, and besides that you don't need much. Bring a light free rack up to 1 inch. A set of nuts is really helpful.

Photos

mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10a
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.10a
Contrived, not a great line. Jun 17, 2015
Eran Shileikis
Dysfunctional, CO
 
Eran Shileikis   Dysfunctional, CO
 
Above the 2nd bolt you can get a bomber grey (between yellow & red) Alien followed by a #0 TCU and a #0.5 Camalot. We climbed almost every other route in the immediate area, and it's a much better route than it looks like from below. Recommended! Just belay at the ledge, bring up a 2nd, and then walk-off left. Feb 21, 2007
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.10a
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.10a
Fun moves at the bolts and the dihedral. One may see a BD #5 stopper in the dihedral that I lodged too deeply to be removed(have at it!). We climbed to the top at broken rock and walked off to the left. Aug 29, 2004
TBD
  5.9
TBD  
  5.9
I found this to be just as enjoyable and of similar difficulty as Emerald City. Oct 27, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Personally, I didn't care much for it and I didn't think it was well bolted either. Of course that's my opinion, but I would not have given it more than 1 star. Feb 11, 2002
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
I'll "third" the motion.....this pitch deserves at least two stars. Fun, varied climbing. Great for the winter as it gets more sun than the other routes in the area. Feb 11, 2002
Contrived??? I think this is great route with fun balancy moves up the steep arete. Two stars!!!!! Feb 10, 2002
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
 
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
 
Yeah, I definitely think otherwise. This route deserves two stars. The rock is good, and the first crux is really fun. I'm really only talking about the first pitch though. Nov 11, 2001